Any tips on how to repair a tenon that stood a little too close to the router bit, resulting in a loose fit in the mortise? I'm thinking about gluing a thin strip to each side of the tenon and taking another whack at it. Any other ideas will be appreciated.
Yes, shiming with veener is pretty standard approach but am I missing something here. Bad loose tenon. I would throw it in the trash and make a new one. Or is it already glued in on one side?
Also, my typical rant on loose tenons. If you have a standard tenon and you pin it, then you have a joint that will last 100 years plus. Regardless of what happens to the glue. If you use a loose tenon and only pin one side or neither, it is not that same joint. In many cases, it won't make a difference or maybe make very little but on a chair or an apron of a table that will be dragged around, etc. It is not anywhere near as long lasting as the classic M&T.
Earlier this year FWW did a bit on joint strengths. Loose tenon was supperior to m&t, pinned m&t and most of the other joint types (with half-lap and bridle being the strongest).
Answer: Any good glue joint can last centuries. Its life will be shortened by moisture, heat and stress. Moisture on a tabletop is a common factor. Heat can be. And tabletop joints are stressed at the ends by the migration of moisture through the end grain -- that's why antique tops split on the ends typically.
Have the same dimensional changes that turned the glue into powder also either split out the section through which the pin passes or loosened the pin to the point that it long since fell out?
Indeed ... in many of these old pinned joints with no glue, you often see the detrimental effects of the stress of mechanical compression on both the pins and the exterior bore hole area, eventually ending in failure of the joint.
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