Loose Arbor on Jet TS

The arbor on my Jet cabinet saw seems to have about 2-3 thousandths of side to side play. I pulled off the belts and the arbor can be moved side to side in the arbor bracket.
Here is the diagram. http://tinypic.com/m/8yxa2x/3
It seems like 116 (arbor nut) is a bit loose such that 104 (the arbor) has some side-to-side play. It seems like if I was able to tighten it 1/8th of a turn it would take up .002 to .003 and be solid.
Initially I thought there was some wobble in the bearings (106), but with the belts off and out of the way it seems like the play is really side-to-side with the arbor.
115 (spanner nut) does thread into the 114 (arbor bracket). Is the spanner nut just to hold the bearings in-place? And then the arbor nut (116) is what holds the arbor inside the bearings?
Now getting a wrench onto that arbor nut will be a challenge as it fits inside the spanner nut. (The spanner nut is threaded into the arbor bracket and then the arbor nut is threaded onto the arbor but that is tucked inside the spanner nut. So I need a thin-walled socket to fit in there.
Im just wondering if the side-to-side play might be intentional. It seems you would want it snug, but not tight.
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Are you measuring this with a tool ???
A TS-Aligner would be good for that.
A arbor is not supposed to move in any direction.
This "sounds" like the arbor bracket might be screwed, if the bearing are good.
kansascats wrote:

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No.. what I'm saying is he arbor bolt moves side to side about .002 to .003 (by feel). I could get out the dial indicator, but don't need to, I can feel it. I'm just wondering if I can tighten up the arbor nut (not the one that holds the balde on -- but rather the other side -- see diagram). That nut seems like what holds the arbor in the arbor bracket. If one was to replace the bearings, one would remove that nut, loosen the set screws in the pulley, remove the spanner nut and pull the assembly apart. I'm just wondering if I should try to tighten the arbor nut and if that will take out the play.
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I would agree with tightening the arbor nut. Once snugged to remove the obvious play, test it by hand turning. If that feels good, spin it with the motor (no blade, of course) a bit. If all is good, spin it, more, with the motor. Check for heat build-up in the bearing area, also, just in case something is too tight, but not visably observable.
I don't suppose there is any mention, anywhere, of the arbor nut having a specific torque, for its tightening?
Otherwise, give Jet a call.
Sonny
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I've asked Jet for a procedure to replace the bearings. Figure it should be in there. We'll see.
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------050205040005040309020909 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
I'm not 100% sure on this, but I'll take a shot anyway .. .. I think if you loosen the locknut (#116) .. then snug up the spanner nut (#106) just a bit .. then retighten the locknut .. you should be fine. You are really not pulling the two bearings together with great force, as there is a wavy washer a(#107) to act as a tension buffer. If #107 is a wavy washer, it may have taken a bit of a set, and relieved the pressure it exerts a bit, causing your problem. If you push the arbor in .. and it returns on it's own .. even if it is just a few thou. .. it's probably OK .. but you can still snug up the assembly if you feel better about it. Does it affect the cut .. AND .. has it always been there or have you just noticed it ?? If the cut is good, and MAYBE it's been like this all along .. it might be perfectly acceptable to leave it alone.
On 2/4/2010 3:43 PM, kansascats wrote:

--------------050205040005040309020909 Content-Type: text/html; charset=windows-1252 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> <html> <head> <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252" http-equiv="Content-Type"> <title></title> </head> <body bgcolor="#ffffff" text="#990000"> I'm not 100% sure on this, but I'll take a shot anyway .. .. I think if you loosen the locknut (#116) .. then snug up the spanner nut (#106) just a bit .. then retighten the locknut .. you should be fine. You are really not pulling the two bearings together with great force, as there is a wavy washer a(#107) to act as a tension buffer. If #107 is a wavy washer, it may have taken a bit of a set, and relieved the pressure it exerts a bit, causing your problem. If you push the arbor in .. and it returns on it's own .. even if it is just a few thou. .. it's probably OK .. but you can still snug up the assembly if you feel better about it. Does it affect the cut .. AND .. has it always been there or have you just noticed it ?? If the cut is good, and MAYBE it's been like this all along .. it might be perfectly acceptable to leave it alone.<br> <br> On 2/4/2010 3:43 PM, kansascats wrote: <blockquote cite="mid: snipped-for-privacy@b10g2000yqa.googlegroups.com" type="cite"> <pre wrap="">The arbor on my Jet cabinet saw seems to have about 2-3 thousandths of side to side play. I pulled off the belts and the arbor can be moved side to side in the arbor bracket.
Here is the diagram. <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://tinypic.com/m/8yxa2x/3">http://tinypic.com/m/8yxa2x/3</a>
It seems like 116 (arbor nut) is a bit loose such that 104 (the arbor) has some side-to-side play. It seems like if I was able to tighten it 1/8th of a turn it would take up .002 to .003 and be solid.
Initially I thought there was some wobble in the bearings (106), but with the belts off and out of the way it seems like the play is really side-to-side with the arbor.
115 (spanner nut) does thread into the 114 (arbor bracket). Is the spanner nut just to hold the bearings in-place? And then the arbor nut (116) is what holds the arbor inside the bearings?
Now getting a wrench onto that arbor nut will be a challenge as it fits inside the spanner nut. (The spanner nut is threaded into the arbor bracket and then the arbor nut is threaded onto the arbor but that is tucked inside the spanner nut. So I need a thin-walled socket to fit in there.
Im just wondering if the side-to-side play might be intentional. It seems you would want it snug, but not tight. </pre> </blockquote> </body> </html>
--------------050205040005040309020909--
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The arbot bolt (104) passes through 106 (bearing) and 115 (spanner nut). The nut (116) screws directly onto the threaded end of the arbor bolt (104). From what I can see, the spanner nut simply holds the bearings in-place, and the nut (116) keeps the arbor in-place (from sliding side to side) inside the bearings, allthough the pulley (110) also keeps the assembly locked in-place side to side. The spanner nut (115) actually threads into the arbor bracket (114). So I think all I need to do is tighten that nut (116). But that seems too simple -- hard to believe that one nut is all there is to it. But visually that seems to be the case. I cannot see the load spacers (107 and 108) on either side.
I do get some saw marks -- that in my opinion should not be there. I figured the arbor should have no play what-so-ever.
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That arbor nut would seem to be special. I cannot find a socket to fit on it. It looks like a 7/8" would fit, but it's just a bit small. 7/8 is about the largest one can find for 3/8" drive. If I go to 1/2" drive, then I run into the case where the walls of the socket are too thick and do not fit inside that spanner nut.
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kansascats, Sears sells a 3/8" drive socket set that goes to 15/16", and sell individual sockets in some sizes. Kerry
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Being a Jet, it's likley metric.
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Just wondering, did you get this successfully resolved? I have the same saw, give or take a variation. No problems so far, but just in case.....
Thanks, Roy
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Not really resolved yet. Can you feel any side to side play in your arbor. It's easier to feel with the belts off. I clearly have .005" of play (put the dial indicator to it). It seems like if I tightened that right side arbor nut it would take-up the play, but getting onto that nut is a bear. A 7/8" socket is too small. I guess that suggests 23 (rare) or 24mm, and then it's unlikely I can clear the walls of the spanner nut -- which means likely that needs to come out first. I tried an ajustable pin wrench, but that's not going to work in amongst the trunnion assembly -- not space to navigate. The 1/2" sockets I have are too "thick" to fit. I have yet to find a 24mm 3/8" socket.
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I've posted this update on woodcentral... pasting it here..
I took off the pulley-side arbor nut, loosened the pulley set screws, and with a block of wood drove out the arbor from the bearings. The blade-side bearing came out with the arbor. I looked it over, and it seemed like the blade-side bearing might be a bit loose-- but very small amount. I was going to get a new set of bearings and just replace them. But since I couldn't find a local store with bearings today, I took a look at what it was going to take to get that other bearing out. With the top on, it was going to be a real bear to loosen that spanner nut (then tap out the bearnig with a larger block of wood. (And then I'd have to figure out a way to pull the other bearing off nearly the full length of the arbor-- and get the new one back on!) So I thought I'd just put it all back together as a practice run to see how hard it was going to be to put back what I had taken apart. I needed my son to hold the pulley and one spacer in-place, but we mananged to get it back together. With a block of wood on the blade- side arbor, using a hammer we tapped it mostly into place, and then using the arbor nut we snugged it all together tight. Then I backed off the arbor nut about 1/4 turn. It seems like it might be just a bit stiffer on the rotation than it was before, but it does spin freely and surprise, surprise -- all the play is gone! My guess is that maybe all the inner runs -- arbor, arbor spacer, pulley, arbor spacer, and arbor nut were not tight to begin with. When I spin it up, it sounds fine. I does concern me a bit that I had to put quite a bit of leverage on the arbor nut when I tighten it up -- to fully draw in the blade-side bearing -- and that it seems to spin maybe just a bit less freely. But time will tell I guess, and for now, it's solid like I would expect it to be.
When I say quite a bit of leverage, I was using a 15/16" socket on a 1/2" drive ratchet with a handle that is 7" long -- while I was sitting awkwardly below the saw. So not sure how much real leverage I could apply. I guess that wavy washer/load space is in the arbor assembly putting some pressure on the outer run of the bearing. The leverage I put on the arbor nut should have just pulled the inner runs (blade side arbor - bearing - spacer - pulley - spacer -- nut) together, and the outer runs are sitting in the arbor housing. The pulley-side bearing outer run is tight in the housing by virtue of the spanner nut.
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