I use the following water-based stains then coat with l lb shellac then
apply a glaze of vanDyke brown
I've used antique cherry red with antique cherry brown in various small
volume proportions until I got the shade of red-brown I liked on scraps or
red oak. Then I mixed up two quarts of the color.
On Sat, 26 Jul 2003 01:01:27 -0500, Traves W. Coppock
I'll let that one go.
And here's where to look for info on what to do after
you've processed that pineywood that way:
This is a handy link for the pukey duck builders as well.
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I wish I could take credit for that article Traves - however that one was
written by the other jim mc namara a.k.a. domingo rose. I haven't seen him
post here in quite some time, but he's a staining guru IMHO and very
knowledgeable. Hell - do you think I know that many words to write an
article like that? LOL!
out of the shop and said. . .:
I tried "Many" different stains and none of them would give me a
"Dark" red finish until I tried a water based General Finishes
Rosewood stain. You can see pics on my website. The picture on the
fron page is not to accurate but if you co to the end table picture
gallery, you will see it in a good representation.
A few notes.
1. Wet the project first and let it dry completly, then sand down the
raised grain before staining. I wouldn't go finer than 220, maye 320
or the stain doesn't take as well.
2. Really grind it into the grain to overcome the water surface
tension and get it into the grain lines. Then paint it on thick and
even, it can blotch. After 15 minutes when it's real dry, gtind some
more than wipe clean.
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