Looking for design input, please (long)

Traditional panel would be vertical grain. However, this also typiciall assumes the panel has a vertically longer aspect ratio.

Earlier I suggested one center stile. I thought about that later and here is more astehetic (sp?) input.

If you go to a single center stile, you "could" make it 1.5-to-2x the width of the side stiles. To be really accurate you should use the golden ration of 1.6 something. Or you could break up the back into three panels, then use the same width for all 5 stiles.

BW

Reply to
Bill Wallace
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Reply to
Thomas Bunetta

Wed, Dec 1, 2004, 8:41am snipped-for-privacy@ewol.com (Thomas=A0Bunetta) says: Jeez JOAT, you REALLY like to tempt the Woodworking Gods, don't you Tom

Hey, they're the ones who wanted the pink paint. I finally got them talked into yellow.

JOAT Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind dont matter, and those who matter dont mind.

- Dr Seuss

Reply to
J T

Thomas,

Thanks for the link regarding the mortise & tenon jig.

Regarding your barrister cases I would recommend you do as others have suggested and make a frame back and use either shiplap or a solid panel within the frame. Depending on your equipment surfacing the solid panels may be a hassle but it can be done without a widebelt or drum sander if you have the time.

Remember you can make the back frames with the same setups as your doors so that would help the workflow.

The frame/panel would look great and I think even if you did loose shiplap withing the frame it still would have a nice look, albeit a bit less common than a raised or flat panel. However if you can source some 1/4" cherry furniture grade ply for the flat panels you would save yourself a lot of time.

Sanding glue-ups is no picnic with small power tools, it can be done with hand planes but pretty frustrating unless you have well tuned planes and a nice solid bench. Otherwise you'll chatter and tear out even your friendly cherry.

But if time isn't an issue then turn on the radio, sharpen your planes and enjoy yourself.

Reply to
FreeState

Reply to
Thomas Bunetta

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Reply to
Thomas Bunetta

Not sure I completly follow but I think I do. If you are saying you'll use vertical aligned boards across the back and cut them so the board on the top case is cut from the same piece as the piece on the case below, etc so if you stack the cases in the proper order you can see the grain lines match up, that is brilliant.

I built a really big (ugly) all Oak piece on contract for some real estate office that had a hug top 3' wide by 8' long. On the front it had a set of legal file drawers on each side and a double set of doors at the center, typical FF construction. For the top I built a frame, with cross members aligned witth the front (and back) stiles. Then I floated some MDF in the frame, layed in 1/4" oak ply and trimed each panel where it met the frame with a 1/8" wide Cherry inlay, so while it looked a bit like frame and panel it was all sanded flush.

All that being said to indicate that the only pride I got out of the design was that I sliced the 3 inlayed oak panels for the top all from the same piece of ply, and I also calculated and cut out the gap for the stiles and cherry inlay. It relly looked cool because you could really tell it was from one piece. I think if I just cut it in three pieces, then laid them in 3-4" apart, the grain cathederals wouldn't have flowed nearly as nice.

You should do the same with your vertical pieces (if I followed correctly), figure out the exact distance between the visible portions of the boards accounting for the top and bottom of each case (and any feet, etc) and cut that much out of each piecs so it truly looks continuous, just having some portions hidden in a sense.

Follow?

Reply to
Bill Wallace

On Thu, 2 Dec 2004 05:51:14 -0500, "Thomas Bunetta" spake the words:

Skills? What are those? Just Do It! Use thicker inlay resawn from your own wood. That flimsy veneer stuff they sell is way too finicky for the likes of us. Resaw to 1/2", inlay 7/16", and plane/scrape/sand to suit.

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

You got it exactly! I think this will provide an esthetically pleasing appearance while reducing the number of glue ups necessary to cover all those backs! Tom

Reply to
Thomas Bunetta

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