Looking for a tip to center my forster bit in my mortise

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wrote:

Unless this is a rather small item, consider making your mortises wider than your Forstner bit. As far as straight drilling goes, do you have a drill press that swivels to drill next to a good wood vise? It's hard to beat the accuracy of a well-mounted vise, and a little shimming will keep the wood in the right place for through drilling. If there are lots of pieces to be pierced, replace the stationary wood jaw with a customized one of the correct thickness.
For deep holes, an auger bit is nearly as accurate as a Forstner, and the chips clear easier. If you really want 1/4" mortise, consider an undersized (7/32"? ) brad point drill bit.
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wrote:

Unless this is a rather small item, consider making your mortises wider than your Forstner bit. As far as straight drilling goes, do you have a drill press that swivels to drill next to a good wood vise? It's hard to beat the accuracy of a well-mounted vise, and a little shimming will keep the wood in the right place for through drilling. If there are lots of pieces to be pierced, replace the stationary wood jaw with a customized one of the correct thickness.
For deep holes, an auger bit is nearly as accurate as a Forstner, and the chips clear easier. If you really want 1/4" mortise, consider an undersized (7/32"? ) brad point drill bit.
----------------- I am making 1/4" wide and 1/4" deep mortises in a leg that is 7/8" square. I can not move my drill press to a vise. Before I started this project I experimented with twist drills and brad point drills as well as forstner bits. Each was 1/4". I didn't try a smaller drill bit. That is actually a good idea as it leaves me totally in control of the edges of the mortise with my chisel. I am making a set of stacking tables. Each table has 4 legs (naturally) and each leg has 2 or 4 mortises. I am finishing up tenons tomorrow (I hope) on the first table. When I start the next set of legs I will experiment on some scrap with an undersized brad point bit to see how that works for doing my mortises. Thanks for the suggestion.
Dick
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Look at this device for that problem.
http://www.beadlock.com /
I would also look into making my mortise with a router and a jig.
Dick Snyder wrote:

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Before starting this project I thought about beadlock. I talked to the guys at the Rockler store and they weren't crazy about beadlock. I could never pin them down as to exactly what they didn't like and they even sell beadlock at their store. I assume you have had good experience with it since you suggested it.
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Dick Snyder wrote:

I have used the beadlock system and I really can't recommend it. There are a lot of holes to drill with it and the locking knobs for the slide are a bitch to tighten down. I replaced them with a hex head bolt. Still they do a good job considering and if the need comes again I will use them.
Dave N
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Beadlock will work in a "drilling" situation.
I have one and it is used very little but it can do things no other jig can do very easily.
The Beadlock can do offset mortises very easily but the Beadlock requires some practice to very effective.
I "strongly" recommend going to a router for your mortising work.
Here are a couple of jigs:
http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/090/extras/plunge-router-mortising-jig /
http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/147/videos/setting-up-and-using-the-router-jig /
and another way to do m&t joinery http://www.mortisepal.com /
or http://plansnow.com/routerjigsclos.html
or
look at Swingman's jig that he built:
Dick Snyder wrote:

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