There are different grades of Loctite with different degrees of holding strength, from "easily adjustable" to "heat it red hot and _maybe_ it'll come out if you're having a good day".
When using Loctite with wood, go to the Loctite site and read the technical information--it may need a primer in order to cure, the same way that CA needs an accelerator.
Whatever fills the gap. Foil probably conforms better than some things.
You haven't discovered the google calculator? Go to google and try this search: "14.3 foot pounds in newton meters". Don't include the quotation marks. I've found very few units that it won't convert.
If you do go the glue route (which is probably what I would do), ask yourself if you might ever want to undo the screw for any reason some day. Epoxies and polyurethane/Gorilla glue would make that job difficult or impossible; silicone would be a better choice IMO.
Mark
Maybe, however I have been using polyurethane to re-bed the SS screws on the spray hood of my sailboat. I remove the spray hood every 2 to 3 years and I do not have any problem to remove the screws. I also used Gorilla glue to re-bed screws in wood, presswood and plywood with no problem. As long as the Robertson, Phillip or slotted head is clean and the screw driver has a firm and positive contact with the screw's head it works fine. Over the years I have learned that it was better to use a old awl to clean the screw head first The worst are the Phillip head. A worn out Phillip screw driver is the worst thing to use especially with a powered driver. Using Locktite on metal to metal is a different kettle of fish.
Go for the green- sleeve retainer. Keep it moving. Improvise the rest.
JWhatever fills the gap. Foil probably conforms better than some things
On board my sailboat I carry a two parts epoxy putty stick. When I am in trouble I fill the screw hole with that epoxy putty. Then I wait 15 minutes. Make sure it has harden and drill the proper size of pilot hole. I have use that epoxy putty (gray) to fill holes in my wooden dinghy and it works well.
Similar to the above, the following is a sure fire way to repair stripped screw holes.
1) Drill out stripped hole with a 1/4"-5/16" drill. 2) Fill with an epoxy putty which is nothing more than epoxy thickened with micro-balloons. 3) When cured, drill pilot hole which is about 75% of thread OD.SFWIW, IMHO, wood screws are worthless except when you are building a wooden boat.
Coarse thread, self tapping sheet metal screws provide much greater holding power, especially in thickened epoxy as described above.
Yes, you can remove the screws, if required.
Have fun.
Lew
Beats me, but I've seen where it has upset folks. Seems the preferred method is the dowel method, but I always defer to the good old toothpick.
Huh, I'm impressed. Whoda thunk they covered this one?
14.3 (inches per second) = 1.14621067 × 10**20 angstroms per millenium-- Mark
Or if you'd like to solve physics problems in user-friendly units, you can ask for "c in furlongs per fortnight" (the speed of light =
1.8026175 × 1012 furlongs per fortnight.)Watch out for rounding errors
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA
Yup, used to be wooden matches (without the head of course). Prolly b4 a lot of you were born...
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Managed that one fine. The only thing I've tried that it won't handle is inches of mercury as a unit of pressure.
The calculator that comes with Mac OSX can convert to in-Hg.
Then maybe you ought to get on google feedback and tell them to start running Macs.
snipped-for-privacy@nb.sympatico.ca wrote:
Thanks for the info, that is good to know. Surprising to me, but now I can keep that in mind in the future.
Depends on which Loctite product you mean. Besides their superglue, they do make threadlocker for machine screws where you can still remove the screw later if you want.
Mark
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