Locking Miter-- Glue up problems


I'd appreciate some suggestions...
I have a locking miter bit for my router table and can cut perfect loking mitre joints. But when I try to glue these up the thickness of the glue itself is enough to stop the corners from fitting together as perfectly as they do in the "dry fit".
Anyone else have this problem?
I'm not putting the glue on super thick... but when I brush it on it does start to set up pretty quickly. Thin the glue?
I am tempted to just put glue in places and pin the connection. But the "beauty" of the locking miter is supposed to be the extensive glue surfaces as well as the mechanical "lock".
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I have used TitebondII extended on tight dovetails. Is is rather thinner than the normal glue and seems to accomodate tight joints better..

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I've used Titebond Extended on the lock miter joint and it has worked well. You can also adjust the joint to be a bit loose and then there is space for the glue.
Toller wrote:

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ash_lee wrote:

Dave
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Thu, Jan 12, 2006, 8:27am (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@sbcglobal.net (ash_lee) doth query: <snip> Thin the glue? <snip> I wouldn't. But, on the other hand, I don't need to, because I already keep a bottle of Titebond II thinned 50% on hand. LOL I'd give it a shot.
JOAT You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you "know"? - Granny Weatherwax
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50% thinned? With water? Is this correct? I thought 10% was over doing it. I assume you have no, or very minor problems @ 50%?
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There's a bottled liquid hide glue you might want to try. I think it's a Tite Bond product - comes in a brown squeeze bottle. The warmer you get it the thinner it becomes - making it easier to apply a very thin layer of glue. And it's got some fairly good open time.
BTW - if you make a closed box with all lock mitered edges - DO NOT DRY FIT THE WHOLE THING - if you feel you need glue to hold the parts together.
The closed box at the bottom of this page is still floating around my shop and serves only as a conversation piece.
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/LockMiter/LockMiterBox1.html
charlie b
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wrote:

Like the box Charlie! I bet some head scratching went into figuring out the sequence of router cuts!
I can only begin to imagine where some of the shop "conversations" might lead :~
Regards.
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Thu, Jan 12, 2006, 9:37pm (EST-1) snipped-for-privacy@moment.net (RickSamuel) shouts into the dark: 50% thinned? With water? Is this correct? I thought 10% was over doing it. I assume you have no, or very minor problems @ 50%?
What? What? Who you talking to?
JOAT You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you "know"? - Granny Weatherwax
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On Fri, Jan 13, 2006, 12:28pm snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (JT), that's me, did reply to snipped-for-privacy@moment.net (RickSamuel) with: What? What? Who you talking to?
When you respond to a post, but don't bother stating which post, it usually confuses people - because most time no one can tell who, or what, you're responding to. 'Sides, it ain't polite. And, for the Gods' sakes, if you don't already know ow to snip, learn. It isn't real cool to copy every bit of a l ong post, unless you plan on responding to each, and every, but of it.
So, for the benefit of others, I will answer the questions you asked. 50% thinned? With water? Is this correct? I thought 10% was over doing it. I assume you have no, or very minor problems @ 50%?
Yes, 50% thinned. I did say Titebond II, so, yes, water. Yes, correct. Not sure if you doubt my word, or what. I have considered mixing up some thinned down to 25% - that's 25% Titebond II, 75% water I would have thought it was obvious I have not problems with 50%, otherwise I wouldn't keep it on hand.
I don't recall the exact bonding strength of Titebond - or any other glue for that matter. They're all stronger than the wood tho, so it's pretty much moot. So, I'll say if it's 2500 PSI at full strength, 50% should be 1250 PSI strength, and 25% should be 675 PSI. My MAIN use of the thinned is for gluing paper onto wood. Which is why I think the 25% may work for me - if I ever get around to trying it - maybe later today. I have NO problems using the 50%, part of the reason for thinning was to insure paper penetration. After it dries overnight, it's settled down right onto the wood, even showing the wood grain. Works very nicely. So, I'm thinking the 25% will do even better, save me some glue, and will be more than strong enough for my use.
And, yes, at times I do use the 50% on wood, and have had no probems using it. It penetrates small gaps nicely - much better than full strength, and I have had no problems with holding power. I do NOT use it all the time. For most work, I use the full strength.
I started out using full strength with the paper, and didn't care for the results. Thinned it a bit, better. Thinned more, even better. Stopped 'spearminting at 50% because it works so nice. But, now that I'm reminded, I'm gonna thin down some to 25%, and see how it does.
I usually don't bother to ask people if something like that will work or not, just go ahead, try it, and see for myself how it works. I've found out that a whole lot of the people who'll tell you something won't work have no first-hand experience with it. Read the sig.
JOAT You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you "know"? - Granny Weatherwax
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