I'm trying to locate some 5/8" steel rod - threaded for about 5" and
unthreaded for about 3" - for a total of 8" long. thread required is
11 threads per inch. The rod is to replace the elevation screw on my
Rockwell jointer. Someone suggested buying a threaded 5/8" bolt and
cutting off the head, but I can't seem to locate long bolts with this
much thread on them. They typically have 1.75" of thread. Anyone know
a source of these bolts with 5" of 11 TPI thread, or a source of
thanks in advance.
> What's to stop you from buying unthreaded rod and threading it
> $20 to buy a die and steel rod and an investment of a little elbow
> should give you what you want.
The operative words are "little elbow grease".
Having done this job a time or two, it is a lot of friggin work
If it were me, I'd buy some grade 2 hex head bolts and head to a
Let them do the hard work.
What is the problem using a fully threaded rod?
Faster and lower cost.
He didn't buy the handle to drive the die and is turning it with his
Seriously though... Why not a fully threaded rod?
Or... Pay me and I'll do it for you. ....But I'm sure a local machine shop
will cost you less in the long run.
Joe Agro, Jr.
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Not really. Use thread cutting oil -- it contains sulfur which
facilitates cutting steel. You should be able to get it at a plumbing
By the way, I also use this oil when I'm drilling into steel. I've
even used it with a hole saw . Also a couple drops on a hack saw makes
the work go faster.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
I am considering buying a die and threading the 5" section that I
need. From what I understand this is tedious, and not as accurate as
buying a pre-threaded section. Hence, my desire to avoid doing the
The original elevation adjusting screw in my jointer is not threaded
on the end that sits in a 5/8" hole in the jointer table. I suspect
it could be threaded there, but that might tend to enlare the hole in
the cast iron. It might also make turning the screw more difficult if
the threads tended to "bite" into the cast iron. I'm not sure about
this; maybe Rockwell did this as a cost-saving measure.
So far, all the bolt suppliers I've contacted have only bolts that are
threaded the last 1.75 inches or so. But i'll keep trying.
Check to make sure it's standard threads, and not Acme threads. The difference
is that standard screw threads look kinda like this: (view in a fixed-space
and Acme threads look more like this
_ _ _ _ _ _ _
/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
This is a standard diameter and thread size. Is there any reason the
rod cannot be threaded for it's entire length. If regular allthread
is strong enough, that would be the least expensive solution.
If the rod _must_ be unthreaded for a portion of it's length, you
could buy a 5/8-11 die and some 5/8 steel rod, and cutting
and threading the length you need. If you need higher strength steel
for this part, say the equivalent of a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt,
consider buying 8" bolts, using the die to thread to the correct
length, and cut off the head. If you make these with grade 8 bolts
you (and the die) will get a minor workout cutting the threads.
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)
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