Leigh D4 dovetail jig driving me nuts

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I use only the 1/4" bits and don't have the problems you're having, though.
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wrote in message

Something else to consider, since the DT jig will flex when a router is setting on it, are you using a backer board under the top clamp to totally support the entire width/length of the DT jig? If it is not totally supported it can raise or lower with the weight of the router closer to the ends of the work. It also insures that the DT jig is adjusted correctly to the correct plane.
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Leon wrote:

... snip

Yes, I've been doing that. Coincidentally, the tail with the worst gap is the one closest to the near end of the jig.

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I think a plunge router would not be appropriate for this application, even if it has a real good depth lock.
scott
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Scott Lurndal wrote:

Let me clarify that. I use a plunge router, but once I have the depth set, don't use the plunge mechanism, I use it as a fixed base. I agree, the plunge to plunge repeatability errors would contribute significantly to errors.
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On Mon, 25 May 2009 19:02:24 -0700, Mark & Juanita

I've used what may be an older version of this jig for quite a few years, in its 24" version and have had no problems with it.
Will admit that I set up the left side for my stock height short drawers and the right side for the taller ones. Used the middling version of Loctite on the screws.
Used a full width backer and fillers, so that the clamping comes out even.
Router set up is a 3 hp Porter Cable and the cutters are CMT's.
Have not had fit problems but that may be because I mic my pieces coming out of the planer.
Remember having some blowout problems when I started with the jig but the waste board cured that.
Have had good results on multiple runs using this method but stock prep for flatness and thickness has been critical.
Only problems that I've had were from not setting the router dead flat throughout the cut.
Regards,
Tom Watson http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 /
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Tom Watson wrote:

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