Leigh D4 dovetail jig driving me nuts

[Swingman]

[Mark & Juanita]

Chatter may be a contributor, but I've seen the same kind of gapping when using the heavier plunge router as well. I'm starting to really lean to the idea that neither of my router bases is flat enough and that there is enough rocking that I'm getting excessive cutting.

I need to look into the 8mm bits but then will need a collet adapter to work in my router

[DJ Delorie]

I use only the 1/4" bits and don't have the problems you're having, though.

[Leon]

Something else to consider, since the DT jig will flex when a router is setting on it, are you using a backer board under the top clamp to totally support the entire width/length of the DT jig? If it is not totally supported it can raise or lower with the weight of the router closer to the ends of the work. It also insures that the DT jig is adjusted correctly to the correct plane.

[Scott Lurndal]

I think a plunge router would not be appropriate for this application, even if it has a real good depth lock.

scott

[Mark & Juanita]

Yes, I've been doing that. Coincidentally, the tail with the worst gap is the one closest to the near end of the jig.

[Mark & Juanita]

Let me clarify that. I use a plunge router, but once I have the depth set, don't use the plunge mechanism, I use it as a fixed base. I agree, the plunge to plunge repeatability errors would contribute significantly to errors.

[Gene Foeler]

replying to Mark & Juanita, Gene Foeler wrote: I have the jig, an excellent router, sharp bits, and tighten the clamps. The results are inconsistent, gaps in joints on one drawer, great on the next. Gave up on the last batch of drawers and used a miter lock router bit and had excellent results and good looking drawers. Dove tails are great, but a finished, functioning project is better! I am going to try placing a second board beside the drawer side I?m routing to see if it will hold the side in place. Good luck! Gene