This could also be titled "Trying to bite off more than I can chew"
I have several hundred feet of half log siding leftover from our
combined log home/log garage accomodations and now that I have a
thickness planer I started to make these boards into 6 inch wide 3/4
red pine boards to trim out between the rafters where they pass over
the log walls. My finished peices need to be 9 or 12 inches tall. In
my haste I began to resaw the 6 foot boards and then pass them through
the planer (jointing the backside if necessary).
Well, my lack of expertise in resawing created a lot of uneven boards
so then I thought about crosscutting the siding to 20 or 26 inches
(twice the required length plus waste) and then resawing and planing.
That approach worked very well as I could handle the shorter length on
the bandsaw and I just "assembly lined" the shorter boards through the
planer. My wasted wood was reduced to alsmost nothing and I had all of
my pieces in the near finished size. Still, I'll have to create a sled
or table to allow me to resaw longer boards because I don't see how I
could slide anything oversized across the current saw table. (It's a
Anyway, I had a lot of fun making mass producing those short boards.
I have the same bandsaw (with riser), and used it to resaw an 8-fot long
board. I built a resaw fence and extension tables for the purpose. See a photo
of that setup at http://www.artg.tv/fireplace-mantel-pix.html .
The extension tables mount to the same screws that the original rails for the
rip fence use. Each table is are six feet long. I used aluminum angle, and cut
keyhole slots in it to match the pattern of the fence rails. I built
adjustable length legs, and mounted them with hinges about a foot from the far
end of the extension so the table store relatively flat when I don't need
Thanks for sharing your setup. Although the fence I had was wide/tall
enough, I did not have anything mechanical to apply pressure to the
boards except my hands. Maybe I should also work or some type of
roller to maintain tension againnst the fence. Thanks again,
sections of plywood, and cut them on my table saw. A roller setup might be
better in that it would present less resistance to pushing the work into the
This was my first ever attempt ad doing this sort of thing, and I learned
quite a bit in the process (and I'm sure I'll learn even more next time).
A longer fence, positioned mostly ahead of the blade, would have permitted me
to use multiple featherboards ahead of the blade, and would have stabilized
the work much better than the setup I used.
On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 06:28:44 -0500, Swingman wrote:
Thank you! I appreciate the compliment.
Its possible that insufficient tension was at least part of the cause. I've
also read a paper on the topic on the Highland Hardware website that indicates
that bowing may also be due to improper alignment of the work with blade drift
I do have one of the "high tension" springs installed. I simply tensioned the
blade using the flutter method. I have very little experience with resawing,
and I have not spent as much time experimenting with it as I should.
Highland Hardware's "Wood Slicer". I bought two for the purpose, a 3/4-inch
and a 1/2-inch, after reading a few posts here from people who really liked
them. I started out with the 3/4-inch blade, but during the first cut, it
jumped off the upper wheel and the teeth smacked into the upper portion of the
guard (I think it happend when I tried backing up the work when I noticed the
saw bogging down). That forced me to switch to the 1/2-inch blade, and that
worked very well for the remainder of the work.
I'd say you're "experienced" at this point ... a lot of folks wouldn't
attempt it, much less with such success.
I was just wondering ... I recently put a new tension spring on my older
Delta 14 and was surprised at the improvement in resawing thicker stock.
And, with the new spring, the tension indicator marks on the Delta are
measurably (with a bandsaw blade tension gauge) more accurate.
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