Laser levels

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On 12 Feb 2006 14:22:05 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

I agree, as well.
That laser's GREAT for chair and picture rail, though!
Barry
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Leuf (in snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com) said:
| wrote: | || I'm planning to install about 400 feet of (three layered) crown || molding in 5 rooms with several outside corners. | | I've never done crown moulding but why would you need a level? If | you need a line for the bottom of the moulding why not cut a board | to the right width and just mark along the bottom? You want the | line to follow the ceiling not necessarily be level, don't you?
Damn! I used to have a file named applause.wav for occasions like this (mumble)
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Phisherman wrote:

For your project, I'd go with the chalk line. You have two end points, and they're on a fixed surface, so you're in pretty good shape.
I've found laser levels (especially the ones with multiple lasers at 90 degree angles) to be useful for two things. First, they're great for lining up things where you don't have a good surface to snap a chalk line on, e.g. grassy ground. I used one to lay out border stone around some trees, and to line up a section of decorative fence. It's also great for finding a square when there's no square surface nearby. The walls in my house were put up by people who fear straight lines, so when I put tile in an entryway, finding a true square was made much less painful with two of the lasers.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
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Phisherman wrote:

The self leveling kind are the best. IMO, it seems like a waste to spend cash on a laser line that still requires a mechanical level.
I bought the black & decker from HD that has vertical and horizontal lines, self leveling, and can be hung from a strap at any level. I used it when framing my basement, and finding the studs when drywalling. It really works well.
I can't recall the price $80-$100 I believe.
if you have a camera tripod, I think it will attach to this.
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I just had reason to use a laser level. I bought a cheap Black and Decker (BDL400S) for $30 (? I think?; NOT much more than that, fer sure.)
I used it to strike a level line across 6 4X4 posts (3 old and 3 new) that hold up my patio cover. It's not the 360 deg kind, I had to strike the level line sequentially across the first 3 posts, then from the 1st to the 4th, and from the 4th through 5th and 6th. The longest span was ~25 ft. Most importantly, I was able to use it alone.
It worked perfectly, saved a LOT of time, and the results were great. The patio cover came out perfectly, with all rafters and supports measuring perfectly "level" on a 4-ft bubble level.
-Zz

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Phisherman wrote:

I havent had much luck with "leveling" at all. Id rather make the surfaces "align" than level. Sometimes the room itself is not level and your leveling can look off because of this. I found this a lot in hanging pictures and drapes, etc.
One room has long windows in my house and the ceiling is not aligned with the windows but you coudnt tell since its all white. When I hung curtains I was stuck not knowing if I should align to windows or ceiling. In the end I aligned to ceiling since you cant see the window line once the drape was installed. This was a redo. The first install I did with a B&D laser level, and it didnt match either window or ceiling.
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"dnoyeB" wrote in message

When you install cabinets and shelves, you damn well better "level".
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Last update: 12/13/05
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