Laminating A MDF Tool Stand


Hi to all in the group
I am currently building a tool stand from a plan published in American Woodworker from 2000.
I am at the point of deciding to use plastic laminate on all the top sections of the tool stand which is made of 3/4 MDF. The design calls for making slots in the top for a way to slide clamps into for holding wood you are working on.
Here is my problem :
I have only a circular saw and a small Craftsman bench saw. I would normally use a small router with a flush trimming bit to get an accurate nice edge to the laminated top for the slots.
Would it be possible to buy a cheap laminate cutting blade for my circular saw using a fence to cut the slots or would I be better off just using some kind of laminate cutting scoring blade to do this?
I saw one version of the tool stand where a guy used laminate flooring instead of plastic laminate sheet which I assume I can cut to size and do the slots on the table saw just shifting the fence in small increments to make the slots ( I have no dado blade).
As you can guess from this post I have very little in the way of power tools at present as I am just starting out after moving from the UK and giving all my tools away to family and friends.
Here is a link to the plan in case your puzzled about my question http://christophermerrill.net/ww/plans/UTS/Tool_Stand_1.html
Thank you in advance for any suggestions the group can give
Tony Stephens
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On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 13:34:53 GMT, "Mary Mlinar-Stephens"

It looks like the parts are in separate pieces, the "grooves" being openings between them, so.... One possibility: Using an accurate straight edge guide, use your router idea to *just* cut through the laminate; little stress, more accurate cut. Then finish the cut[s] using the table saw, or circular saw with a guide. You might even cut *just* inside the earlier router cuts then clean the edges with a sander.
Either way, seal the ends against moisture when done.
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wrote:

Cut the lam around 3mm oversize, glue it down (use glue sticks to stop it catching the adhesive before you're lined up!) and trim it with your block plane set medium-fine. Take the arris off with 120 grit on a block.No block plane? No problem. A second-cut file, parallel type with one non-safe edge will do the job, running it flat against the board edge so the toothed edge trims away the lam. Remove arris as before. Might sound rough and ready but it works fine if you excercise a small degree of care.
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