As I prepare to build my router table, I have to get some laminate for
the top (and underside of the top). While I was in the BORG today, I saw
these laminated floorboards.
The fit together incredibly snug. In fact, one of the rooms in my house
has these boards. They only cost about $3 a square foot.
I figure it would be a LOT easier to lay these out and get the nice flat
surface I'm looking for. The boards are usually "floated", but they can
Is there any reason that this would be a bad idea?
I've seen seams open up in non-flat floors. Probably not a problem on a router
table. Flatter than
Me, I'd go with the regular laminated. I bought a damaged Wilsonart 4x8 sheet
for $7 about a year
ago. Worked fine for my table saw extension/router table. Lot of usable
The laminate DOES make a good zero clearance insert.
On Fri, 02 Sep 2005 16:56:03 -0600, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
No no no ... please bore me (uh, no pun intended).
The Pergo laminate flooring in my "library room" takes a beating and
looks great. It's laminated wood, right?
So what I'm trying to figure out is .. why is layering laminated wood on
a router table better or worse or the same as laminatING wood?
You need an 1" of it to keep it from deflecting (unless you stress the
hell out of its support), it will change shape no matter what finish
you put on it, work running accross the grain will scuff it and spoil .
Put some fixturing on it and as it (your substrate) changes shape it
will distort the fixturing. Flatness is critical, you won't get it with
If no precision work is expected use it, give it a shot.
Oh ... I wasn't planning on "only" using the laminated boards. I have
an old 1 1/4" thick solid wood door from years back. It's heavy as iron
(not sure what wood it is, but it's nice and hard .. think it was an
external door that my father-in-law kept in the garage).
I was going to use that as the substrate (sp?) and glue down the
laminate ooards over it.
Why hide what's sure to be a wonderful piece of wood.
I'll trade a flat milled aluminum plate for your old door any
day of the week. No matter how old or hard it is wood will
expand and contract with humidity changes, the only
exception I know of is petrified wood...
Pat, when you saw "wood," I am assuming that you are referring to natural
wood lumber, either in single wide pieces (unlikely) or edge glued. I can
understand problems with warping, grain lift, etc. What are wood composites
or engineered lumber?
My own preference is two 3/4" layers of MDF glued together and then covered
with sheet laminate top and bottom.
In my view, wood laminates, resin impregnated etc are not good choices.
There are no flatness specs on this stuff. They change shape.
We're talking about making a tool for routing, not exploiting left over
Some of the criteria for a simple router table:
Simplicity will pay off.
Find out who does engineered stone, such as SileStone, granite in your
area. Sink/cooktop cut-outs are often free... or cheap. Solid surface
makes for a nice flat surface. You'll need to do a little running around
for somebody to drill (core bore) a hole for you. Well worth the effort
and classy too.
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