Laguna re-saw king

Hi all, I know that the Timberwolf is an excellant blade. But has anyone tried the Laguna re-saw king that has C-8 carbide teethe that can be sent back for re-sharpening? Of couse it is way more than the Timberwolf but it amy be worth the investment. Gene
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Gene T wrote:

Haven't tried one myself - at over a dollar an inch as I recall, a 130" blade would be WAY out of my price range. But Torben, the president/ founder of Laguna Tools, is a bandsaw freak and I've heard he had a lot of input into the development of the Resaw King (as well as LT ceramic guides). I've seen him take paper thin slices off a block of cherry with a Resaw King but it could be more his technique and guides and fence set up than the blade he's using.
As for it being resharpenable - at what price? You might want to ask that question of Laguna Tools. Seems it was in the 25-50 cents per tooth range.
What are you resawing and why? Are you going to use it for production quantity work or just occassionaly?
Michael Fortune does a lot of bandsawing - he does a lot of laminated pieces. His recomendation is to go with the lower priced blades and get 8 or 10 at a time. He feels that a good saw and fence set up along with good technique is far more important than the blade's price tag. He also goes with 1/2" blades for both laminate slicing and thin panel slicing as well as mini-log sawing.
I've mainly used Timberwolf but less expensive blades work well if the saw and fence are set up properly. I did have a problem with a band that I had made up but it was a welding problem. The damn weld failed during a cut. Took freakin' forever to get about 4 feet of accordianed band out of the blade quard - and that was on top of the time spent changing shorts. Thank the stars the blade guard kept everything inside.
charlie b
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I'm using a 1" Re-Saw King in a Laguna 16LT. Blade is phenomenal running in ceramic guides. I have adjusted fence square to table and table square to blade and get perfectly square and straight resaw cuts without having to allow for drift. Blade leaves tooth marks that are easily removed with a couple of light passes through a drum sander. Now I resaw all my 4/4 stock when making 1/2" stock before taking it to the planer and save a tremendous amount of load on the planer and dust collector. Have thin strips left for other projects and veneers instead of woodchips. The 132" blade goes for $198. ($1.50/inch). Sawing 1/16" veneer is not a problem. I'm going to be trying to resaw some 1/32" maple for on of my friends who uses it for bird feathers on his carvings.
Dave

the
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jds wrote:

Sounds like the Re-Saw King you've got does what you want it to do, the way you want to do it. And it sounds as if you've got the money so more power to you.
For those with significantly shallower pockets who also may use their bandsaw for all sorts of cuts - some things to think about
- unless you plan on sawing your own boards from logs, a wide blade isn't really necessary. While a properly tensioned wider blade will have more beam strength than a narrower blade, and thus resist twisting or bending in a cut, those problems can easily be gotten around with proper set up of a decent 1/2" blade and good technique - wider blades typically generate more heat in a cut and that can a) cause burning of the wood - especially maple and cherry and b) shorten the life of the blade - wider blades are a bit more "fun" to put on and get off than narrower blades. If it gets to be a chore swapping a 1" or 1 1/4" blade when you need to cut short radius curves that require a 1/4" or 1/2" blade for example you may just skip it and thus not get more use of your bandsaw. That would be a real pity because the bandsaw is such a versatile (sp?) tool. And BTW - if you think coiling up a half inch band is fun try coiling up a 1 1/4" band! Before spending a healthy chunk of change on a very expensive blade consider making a larger bandsaw table top and a better fence than what comes with your saw. The fence that came with the LT16SEC I've got was ok for cutting up 3/4" stock, ply and 2x4s but was way too short (about 3") for resawing. American Woodworker had a great article on building your own top and fence. Works great and 1/16th to 1/32" slicing is now part of my woodworking options.
Here's some stuff about resawing - along with an exploded view of the table top and fence that should give you enough info to make your own. And note that the last image on the page shows a slice off a piece of cherry that's less than 1/16th inch thick - done with a $10 half inch blade.
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/Resawing1.html
With all of that - it WOULD be nice to have a 1/2" Re-Saw King ...
charlie b
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