The countertop replacement is now complete. Many thanks to Robotoy and Leon for suggestions during the project. Robotoy's recommendations regarding the seaming for the peninsula piece and other installation tips were extremely helpful.
Home page:
The only remaining details are applying Watco wipe-on poly to the peninsula backsplash and the microwave shelf base. That will occur over the next several days.
Looks great, glad to help. Is that a genuine Kohler sink or one of those new-fangled acrylics? I really like the lowered spillway between the two compartments....handy for scrubbing veggies. You'll have years of joy from this work. Then we'll walk you through a solid surface project. *S* Looks totally professional. Wilsonart has a winner with that pattern. But, I have to ask....: Why is only one side of the peninsula trimmed with wood?
r
Sink is real cast iron, not sure if it's Kohler or not; it came with the house.
After considering the fact that the working side of the peninsula is going to be subjected to liquid spills and other nastiness, we decided that making the edging with laminate would be more durable and sanitary in the long run. The other side of the peninsula can be the good-looking side, the inside is the working side.
Looks very eloquent - much, much better than the "covers all ills" sierra tile - and professionally done as well. At least until you put all that junk back on the counter. ;-)
Could it be to avoid wear on the "more frequently rubbed against by the prep cook" wooden surfaces? Perhaps a late fix for a math error. :~)
Greg G.
Well, I can see I'm gonna have to start slowing down on my drinkin' again. I missed the whole thread on the new countertops.
They really look nice with a great job on the install.
Mark, how did you input on your cherry edge trim?
Robert
PS: Good job getting the helper involved, too.
Nah.. no math error. It would be a snap to take a heat-gun and flip off the laminate face and biscuit on a strip of wood...
Almost certainly a classic (big-buck) Kohler then. If you're not going to an undermount, then that's the way to go in my opinion. I really like those sinks, but my hernia doesn't.
I was being a wiseass.
Greg G.
Gotta be careful with some of these threads, blink and they're gone. ;-)
Thanks
Not sure what you are asking. The trim is glued to the base material. The peninsula laminate laps the trim by about 1/4" in order to allow a spill-over path.
Man, that was essential for the peninsula, no way I could have got that from the shop to the house without needing one of those operations like Robatoy just had. ;-)
The bonus was that Bruce jumped in while I was attaching the top and wired the disposal. In addition, he just went to re-attaching the plumbing after the sink was in. That was a real life-saver -- I hate plumbing, he claims he's never had a job leak. win-win
Oh NOESSSSS!!! A wiseass on the WRECK!!!
WHaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!11111!!!!!eleventy!!!!!
nyuk.
... snip
Yeah boy, I hear ya' That was the other thing that having help with the installation paid big time. Had no idea that sucker weighed as much as it did.
Looks nice, but instead of 102 hours, you could have rolled on a coat of gloss enamel in 30 minutes or less.
I bet you added thousands to the value of your house too! And you have a happy wife.
Countertops like that are a part of what I do professionally.
To do some quick math... figure on about $ 65.00 per lineal foot (count the corners twice)... that would be dealer cost. In my shop, with my specialised gear and experience: Day 1. Make the substrate and glue on the edges. prep back splashes. Day 2. Lay up the laminate and trim. Cut mitres (Not really applicable in this case) and build back splashes and finish wood. Day 3. Deliver Install and cut in sink and install back splashes.
48 man/hrs (Many hours are double duty as there are other things going on while adhesives set up, etc) That job would come in at just under $2K. After labour and materials, I'd do okay.at 102 hours, fetching your own material, and pondering... you probably saved yourself an easy G-note or more.
Good job!
r
Thanks. The gloss enamel idea didn't survive 5 seconds. ;-)
Oh yeah.
Thanks for the kind words
Thanks for satisfying my curiosity; I was kind of wondering what it would have cost to have done. BTW, the 102 hours includes demo and tearout of a few (maybe 10 or so) hours. Finding those drywall screws under the quick-set took some time; I couldn't just crowbar everything off for fear of destroying the base cabinets.
Cool, then taking into account for the $279 I spent on the trim router (obligatory new tool for a project), I came out way ahead.
Thanks
pill-over path.
So did you mill a small receiver on the top of the trim to accomodate the lap, or did you lay it on top of the trim?
Another thing, I swear that pic of the peninsula taken from the dishwasher side (the one with the plywood in front of the diswasher) looks like the laminate was rolled over that edge. Did I miss something else? Don't tell me you rolled over the edge with a heat gun...
wired the disposal. =A0In addition, he >just went to re-attaching the plumb= ing after
ims he's never had a job leak. =A0win-win
Man.. I thought I was kind of an old school guy. Your helper in the amber shooting glasses couldn't be more than 12. If you already have him out on jobs working on plumbing, you are one hard core guy.
Just kiddin' here. ;^)
Robert
Oh those are fun to put in. I recall putting in our Olympic sized Kohler sink some 15 years ago. 150 lbs and the 2 sides were different depths. I used a screw jack to lower it down onto the caulk around the hole.
The trim was cut flush with the substrate and the laminate laid on top.
No, the edge was trimmed with laminate, then the top attached and trimmed flush. I did not attempt to roll over the edge.
12 is about right. I was lucky to get him to actually help and enjoy helping with the tear-out. Plumbing? forget it.
Wow. This was about 70 or so pounds, that was bad enough.
SNIP
Thanks for the replies, Mark. I wasn't familiar with that particular laminate, so anything I can learn is always a plus for me. From the pics, it sure looks like granite to me.
I agree with putting the wood on the "show side" and the laminate on the work side. Many homes I have been in that have that trim detail have wood that is discolored, disjoined from the top, and in some cases, ruined for anything buy paint.
My kitchen is almost a second shop, and it is a hard working kitchen. I have never seen anything but stainless hold up as well as a really good high pressure laminate with as little care as they require. I know the next set of tops to go in my house will be some kind of laminate.
That being said, I haven't put in a laminate kitchen in a long time. I have a post formed guy like Rob that does the laminate tops, another guy for granite/Silestone/Corian, and another for cultured marble which has been relegated to bathrooms now for many years. I have only done a few bathroom tops that require something from the Ralph Lauren color palette in some time.
In fact, it has probably been five years (more?) or so since I made plywood/MDF kitchen tops and applied the laminate out in the field like we did in the old days.
Robert
I hope you let us know how that particular product stands up to use in the next few months.
Robert
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.