Kitchen counter opinion


My kitchen remodel includes the removal of a drop in oven/range and replacing with a slide in. Current opening is 29-5/16", I need 30" for the new unit.
Checking the relationship of the counter/hood vent over to the opening centerline, the current opening is offset 1/2" to the right. I can't really tell by looking at it, had to drop a level to the counter surface to measure it. In the new arrangement the right counter will be isolated from the counter top, that is, no counter behind the stove controls as there is now with the drop in.
So to get the approximate 3/4" I need I can move the small right side counter over that distance. Will have to trim the bottom side to clear the tile, that then hidden by a shoe molding. However, the new offset top to bottom will be 1-1/4".
Will that be objectionably noticeable?
Other option is to cut 3/8" off each face frame trim piece, leave the offset at 1/2 and have the face pieces match, much harder to do neatly then match stain, etc... Have to do the left side in place, don't want to tear it out.
Well in the event I've made myself clear, you kitchen counter experts, how much have you missed dead center vent section to stove opening, and what's really objectionable.
Frank
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Frank Boettcher wrote:

I'm unclear on part of this. Is it only the countertop opening that needs to be trimmed, or do you not have 30" of clearance between the cabinets on either side of the stove?
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On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 10:11:38 -0600, "Charlie M. 1958"

Sorry about that, The counter top is new and not complete yet. It is not the problem. it is the cabinet itself.
Frank
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Frank Boettcher wrote:

I would center the stove directly under the hood, even if that means having a filler strip on one side and not the other.
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I think because you know that the off set will be there you will notice. No one else will care. However, cut out a piece of card board the size of the upper vent and tape it in place and see how much it bothers you.

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On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 09:46:01 -0600, Frank Boettcher
Well, decision made. After pulling the existing drop in out I find that the screws used to fasten the unit to the face frame of the adjacent cabinets have made such a mess of the first 3/8" on each side, I'm going to have to cut that much off anyway.
Nothing is easy in remodel.
Frank

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"Frank Boettcher" wrote

Part of the art of remodeling is covering up mistakes, both yours and others.
What is difficult for me is dealing with all the screwup's compromises. I would never do such things. But I end up fixing them. And I don't always get to do it the way I want to either.
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On Thu, 8 Nov 2007 14:15:04 -0500, "Lee Michaels"

Yep, I was looking for a shortcut that would let me leave the left side cabinet in place so I could do the job in stages. No go. Now I'll rip out the whole counter, take both adjacent cabinets out, take them to the shop, turn them on their backs, neatly cut the face frames with an edge guide and fine cut blade, blend finish the cut and I'll have a much neater job with a little more work and time. It's my kitchen, so the client is my wife. Better to do it right than to listen to her opinion of my shortcut from now on.
Rather than stages, it looks like it'll be a blitzkrieg. If I don't finish the whole job well in advance of Thanksgiving and you don't see any posts from my you will know what happened. :~)
Frank
Frank
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On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 13:26:27 -0600, Frank Boettcher

If the side of the cabinet(s) opposite the oven doesn't show, can you take enough off of that side so you don't have to refinish?
We've had to do a similar trick with pre-fabs when the sales guy (who measured them) said "oh..that should fit". If we need to take some off for width, we remove the doors and drawers and with a helper run the cabinet edge across a joiner. A couple passes can remove quite a bit and if needed, you can take some off of both edges. Finish is not the best thing for joiner knives so you might not want to do this with new knives. I try to use my partner's joiner.;-)

Ahh.. the Holiday rush. You gotta love it.
Mike O.
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It wll be up against a black range, so even if I leave a slight white line on the corner, I can either stain or flat black the edge carefully and it'll be fine. I'm planning a light sand, stain touch up at wear points, and recoat with precat lacquer anyway

Good idea. One of the cabinets fairly long, may not be able to get it on the jointer in a stable manner.

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I came a little late to the party, but you have made your decision already. The right one, I may add.
You can never escape those: 'if-I-had-only-spent-that-extra-time' demons. They will hound you and drive you to madness...woodworking even...
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On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 13:26:27 -0600, Frank Boettcher

Can I have your...Delta something?
--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
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2 Leon do you still searching for Almod Woody 2.0?
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wrote:

LOL. The goal is to survive. And that would be a whole Delta/Porter Cable shop, with a few of my favorite other brands stuff thrown in (Laguna, Kreg). Actually the proverbial 10 lbs. in a 5 lb. sack.
I'm sure if she does me in, there will be a nice auction.
Frank
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On Fri, 09 Nov 2007 11:31:11 -0600, Frank Boettcher

Sounds like mine. I have the same six major Delta tools that Norm does (except my 46-700 lathe is his "secondary" lathe--I don't have a 46-745).

I've told this story before, so pardon me if you've heard it: a couple of years ago in the middle of my house remodel I had occasion to buy a new tool (I think it was a big Milwaukee D-handle drill). I mentioned it to my daughter who audibly rolled her eyes (no kidding, you could hear it over the phone). I said, "what's the problem? You and your brother are going to wind up with it eventually anyway." She said (without missing a beat, by the way), "yeah, biggest ebay sale ever."
--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
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