Kitchen Corner Cabinet solution

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Most of you may well be aware of the dreaded corner cabinet in kitchens which require us to reach far in the back for those needed pots and pans or other items. I searched products made for this type of cabinet but they all come with a hefty price tag. Therefore, the obvious comes to mind about the capability to make my own.
The general idea is to build a shelf system for the back area with the ability to roll forward and IMO, simple to build. But the dilemma is to make something which will allow the front shelf system to pull out and pivot out of the way for the rear items. Has anyone ever built a system for this type of cabinet? If so, would you share your layout and required hardware, as well as any other info?
Thank you
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They're called "blind corner cabinets". Do a search, they are not that expensive. They make them with "half" moon lazy suzan shelves so they can swing out
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wrote:

They're called "blind corner cabinets". Do a search, they are not that expensive. They make them with "half" moon lazy suzan shelves so they can swing out
Already saw them. Not what I'm looking for.
Thanks
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On 2/18/2010 8:00 PM, SBH wrote:

You don't have to make a blind corner cabinet. As long as you're building your own and don't want to deal with the lazy susan situation, you can do something like some of the options available here, with more space to boot:
http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=corner+cabinet&styp=m&btnG=Search
Watch the wrap ...
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I could be wrong , but I took the OP to mean that (s)he already has the cabinet and is looking for plans for "retro-fit" shelving system, like this sweet unit, but a tad less expensive:
http://www.kitchensource.com/pantry/ful-ksh6117.htm
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DerbyDad03 wrote:

Looks exactly like what I thought he was describing. I'd imagine a home made one wouldn't be easy.
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Easier than ordering or installing? Probably not.
Easier than paying 500 bucks? Certainly.
Oh wait! Free shipping. Never mind. :-)
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On 02/18/2010 09:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Looks like this one is substantially cheaper:
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&pC657&cat=3,43648,43653&ap=2
Chris
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On 2/19/2010 12:18 PM, Chris Friesen wrote:

I am facing a similar situation and saw this solution as well (and liked it too). Still it seemed to me - though I never followed through on it - that it would not be difficult to design something like this using full extension slides. In the end, I have decided to put up a wall, a sliding door and make the whole corner into a pantry, if that makes any sense at all...
Harvey
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Maybe to others, but I'm not quite seeing the picture. Care to elaborate?
Thanks
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On 2/19/2010 6:14 PM, SBH wrote:

Bad description on my part. Think of the typical blind cabinet installation - cabs along a wall (C), ending in a blind cab at the corner (B), and then more cabs (C) along the adjacent wall.
C C B BCCCCCC
Now, take out the blind cab and the first cab or 2 on the adjacent wall. Both lowers and uppers.
C C X XXXCCCC
Wall this area in making a pantry about 2' deep (the depth of the adjacent cab) by about 4' or more (the depth of the blind cab - 2' - plus the width of the adjacent cabs)
If you are still with me, a sliding door goes where the adjacent cab used to be. Now you have a full pantry from floor to ceiling.
C C C_ |__|CCC
I probably just confused the situation more...
I like this solution, too, but how would you get the first shelf to pivot out of the way? http://www.pulloutcabinets.com/2008/03/03/blind-corner-solution /
Harvey
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wrote in message

I think I got it.
Yes, I recently posted that link last night as the exact set up I'm facing with my own cabinet and the exact question of how to pivot the front shelf. Not sure yet about the pivot, but I plan to do this set up. For now, I'll keep the bulkier items on the rear slider (I will also have a double shelf system for the rear) and the lids and smaller items on the front, which will enable me to reach the rear.
Thanks again.
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On 2/20/2010 8:00 AM, SBH wrote:

I wounder if one of these would work: http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&pH629&cat=3,43614,43625&ap=1 - watch the wraparound in the url!
http://www.leevalley.com/shopping/Instructions.aspx?pI917
Perhaps mount the first drawer to this...
Harvey
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Have you considered a full door-width cabinet in the corner, set at a 45 degree angle? You'd use very little additional floor space, and what you used would not be that usable anyway, in the corner of butting cabinets. Yes, it'd be deeper than a regular cabinet, but then that's where you'd keep the old Waring blender, bottles you saved for some reason and other things you "store" "somewhere." The cabinet top itself would be perfect for an appliance garage, since there would be added depth for more storage of "stuff." The same would be true for the upper cabinets as well: perhaps a glass door for them to accent the storage?
Where it gets to be fun is if you build them yourself or have them custom made. By flaring the sides of the corner cabinet out half way to meet a similar flare of the abutting side cabinet, the unreachable corners are less difficult to reach or manage. In fact, I'd consider those full extension shelf glides mentioned elsewhere for the base cabinet. You could store "stuff" on the sides, while the middle, elevated, shelfs would roll out for even better access- particularly to the back, or "V" area.
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re "how would you get the first shelf to pivot out of the way"
I don't believe you do. I think that the set-up just allows you to slide the back shelf over to the opening so that you can reach items easier.
The problem I see is that the additional access is limited to the width of the door.
I just checked my blind corner to see how well that solution would work, and I'm not sure it would be worth the trouble.
My stick-built cabinet is 41" wide, with 27" of "blind area" and a 14" opening.
For me to use that solution, the usable width of the slide out shelf would have to be less than 12" wide to allow for the side wall slide and the frame of the shelf itself.
The lose of that shelf space is minor compared to the fact that all I would gain is about that same 12" of access to back shelf. I'd still have 15" of blind area to deal width.
Sure, 15" is better than 27", but is it worth the time and money? I'm not sure.
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DerbyDad03 wrote: (snip)
but is it worth the time and money? I'm

I have loosely been following this thread, and tend to agree- it is much ado about nothing. A properly done blind cabinet is great for those once or twice a year items, and pulling the little stuff in front out of the way to get to them is really no big deal. I find lazy susan corner cabinets annoying, especially if they don't have the curved wall around them. Stuff falls off and jams. Not a fan of dead spaces in kitchen cabinets- that is where small creatures like to set up housekeeping. If I was a woodworker by hobby rather than only when needed, I might be tempted to come up with a creative solution, like making a hidey-hole back in the dead corner for the safe or something. (false wall in the back of the cabinet, held on by magnets or velcro.) What burglar is going to empty kitchen cabinet looking for a stash spot?
Only kitchen I ever had that really irritated me, was a cheap apartment where the kitchen was in the normal 'dining nook' area, because where the kitchen normally went, was the boiler room for the building. (hey, I was broke, and it was the cheapest they had vacant.) They didn't bother to get a corner cabinet for this one-off application, they just installed 2 normal base cabinets, and left the corner empty under the counter. I left it full of empty jars when I left, stuffed through the hole in the kick plate. Let somebody figure THAT out when they replace those crappy chipboard cabinets in there.
-- aem sends...
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On 2/20/2010 2:07 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

ouch!
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Ouch for that section, yes, but I love the old fashion stick-builts with no walls between the cabinets.
I've got a few 3 & 4 doored sections that are over 5' wide - each section is one big cabinet inside.
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On 2/21/2010 2:34 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Yes, I would have to agree with you there. In my current project, I had the option to make a 7' cab, but have decided to do all drawers in the lowers this time. Therefore I have use of the dividers for hanging the slides on. It will still be a 7' cab, but with 2 dividers.
The uppers are another matter. I got concerned of the possible weight/strength issues, so decided to duplicate the dividers up above. Still, it would be nice to have 1 7' space with 3 sets of doors rather than 3 divided spaces. But how do you hang a half overhang door in a frameless cabinet without dividers??? choices, choices, choices...
Harvey
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