Kinda OT: making a square out of aluminum

[Doug Miller]

I'll have to remember that phrase: "prudent use of one's available resources". Sounds a lot better than "tight".

[patrick mitchel]

I once built an enclosed trailer for a ultralight aircraft- sided the trailer with sheet aluminum all cut with a cir saw with the carbide (cheapie toos at the end) blade (as i rmember, the idea was stated in a homebuilding aircrafet article) on backwards. While the finished cut wasn't too bad, the bitch lay in the feed rate (wanted to grab) and the small slivers strewn all over the work area. Was still finding them in the sweepings of the area months later. I seem to recall that more than one tooth was shed in the process, and I still occasionally use the semi- toothless blade for rough hogging chores) being a cheap bahstud. Pat

[# Fred #]

I wonder if you could put two identical circular carbide blades together like the Craftsmen metal cutting saw with one blade facing forward and the other reversed?

[Prometheus]

Yep. I've routed it and turned it on a wood lathe, too.

It will tend to gall on your blades if you cut a lot though. If that happens, you'll likely have to pick bits of aluminum off from the teeth of your blade.

But to make a simple square, I think I'd avoid the mess. A pretty good one can be had cheap, and without dulling your tools or getting aluminum chips all over.

[Prometheus]

I've seen this done plenty of times with both aluminum door components and glavanized brake metal for trim flashing.

Personally, I don't do that- it seems like a good way to rip off the odd poorly-brased tooth and send it shooting off like a bullet. I've never it that happen, and it may be a straw man I built up in my own mind- but I can't get the idea out of my head, and I leave that that task to others (preferably others with less expensive, beat up saws)

Really, you can cut metal with woodworking tools- the question is whether or not you want to. It's not only messy, but requires a whole extra level of worry and attention. There's a reason why metal is securely clamped when it is cut or milled.

[DanG]

Bullshit!

WD 40 sucks as a saw lubricant and won't prevent blade galling as well as a wax stick lubricant. Use a blade with the least hook or negative hook. I make many items of aluminum and have used a chop saw, table saw, router, and band saw. I can't even say it takes any more caution, but I do seem to get a more careful grip on aluminum, make sure the too is fully up to speed, and launch into the aluminum a bit more carefully, kinda like making that last finish trim cut on hardwood when splintering it or gouging it would ruin the project.

You will probably not get a nice "finish" cut in aluminum. I've tried blades meant for it, lots of teeth, just a few, and whatever was on the saw. The results are similar. I would hope that basic table saw practice would be enough to prevent kick back. Yes, I've been hurt to the point of stitches (oak, don't ask) and have had several incidents. It's not rocket science to position yourself, the material, and the approach to deal with the potential. An upgrade to a 5 HP 3 phase Unisaw puts a whole new meaning to kick back!!! Once you know what it is, how quick it happens, and some of its causes I have not been re-injured, -- - - - -yet. Yes, lucky AND good.

You will get a lot of chips and they hurt. Plan on wearing goggles (face shield would be better) and gloves and long sleeves.