"Leon" wrote in news:ZdydnZ_x0_MEkl_WnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
Shucks... I was enjoying the silky smooth output. Will the effect return with a new set of blades? I wouldn't replace the blades to get this effect, just curious.
Puckdropper
After your "final" pass, do it one more time, without adjusting the thickness. The material removed with that second pass will make your piece a lot easier to finish sand.
I put my Delta 12" onto a rolling stand, about 30" or so tall. Gravity held the portable planer in place, so it was portable. V-shaped 1X1 blocks held it in position on the top, however. The planer had small metal infeed and outfeed tables, which remained in place and between them and the planer itself, filled the top of the rolling table. On the infeed and outfeed ends of the rolling table, I built drop leaf extensions with horizontally mounted boards, about 1" apart that brought the leafs to exactly the infeed/outfeed table heights. For most work, the Delta setup with the factory, metal, infeed and outfeed tables was fine. For longer work, however, I could snap the two leaves up and they'd add another 24" or so to the existing 6" Delta tables. It worked great and by not having the leaves with a flat surface, the slots permitted chips to fall aside so the height didn't change.
Yes, it will. I have a Delta two speed and thought it was fantastic for finishing. Until I got some wear on the blades. Still a good finish, but far from the final finish.
Here is a neat design for a mobile planer stand in a crowded shop.
Puckdropper wrote in news:4bc1b241$0$14034$ snipped-for-privacy@news.astraweb.com:
*snip* *snip*Hey, did you guys know the exhaust really blows? I put a hose on the output and directed it in to a 5 gallon bucket. Then, I ran a board through... Those planer shavings are just like confetti! I had no idea directing the output to a can like that was such a bad idea!
No wonder the home made chip collectors all had covered cans.
Puckdropper
"Puckdropper" wrote
I bought my planer one day, then bought the dust collector the next day.
Yes the finish will return with new knives and or resharpened knives. This is not unique to your planer however all planers have this problem. Keep in mind that planers are not finishers, they are thicknessers. To worry about the out put quality is a waste of time. Any thing can and will nick the knives however that does not take away from what the machine was designed to do. As with any material it needs to be scraped or sanded prior to applying a finish. Those ridges will disappear during that process.
Here is a cabinet shop trick. If you are ripping stock for face frames or have other similar sticks and want them all exact same widths, group them up and lay them on their side and plane them all to the same width.
snipped-for-privacy@news.astraweb.com:
When you are ready to sharpen your blades don't waste your money on "experts" and do it yourself.
Scroll down to "Planer/Jointer Sharpening" for a cool video on a DIY jig.
I don't know how others tell when it's time to sharpen planer blades, but my technique was to gently pass my hand over a planed board. If it felt smooth, the blades were OK. If it felt rough or had cross-grain ruts, then it was time for sharp blades.
I never worried much about nicks in the blades, since shifting the knives a tad would wipe them out and I always made a second pass when I'd reached the final thickness, anyway.
To understand the ruts, just think about how the planer knives come down, plunge into the wood, go with the grain and then lift out the chip as the head rotates. If the knives are not sharp, they bounce against the wood or bludgeon their way into it.
You need to sharpen the knives when you start to get excess tear out and or the shavings start to have dust mixed in.
Still a waste of time IMHO, finish sanding solves the problem. Unless you are skipping the final sanding... OMG!
If you are talking about the ridges that run across the board a slower feed rate normally takes care of that. When I am running faster feed rates I get the "ruts" but that is going to happen even with brand new blades. Slowing down to 16 fpm makes the surface good enough for finish sanding.
I used a lunch box planer from 1988 till about 2004 and never used dust collection. I often lost the dog, a chocolate Lab, under the pile of shavings. The new stationary planer had a DC added in 2005.
When you are ready to sharpen your blades don't waste your money on "experts" and do it yourself.
Scroll down to "Planer/Jointer Sharpening" for a cool video on a DIY jig.
A dirty board will nick a knife... But I agree with sharpening yourself, if nothing else it saves down time.
When you are ready to sharpen your blades don't waste your money on "experts" and do it yourself....
I'd just like to second that.
I use a similar setup and I can sharpen a pair of blades faster than it takes to drive 8 miles one-way to the "local expert" who does a so-so job.
I'll add that my jig is *way* more primative than the one shown in the video. Brian has a sweet little jig, but you get by with way less effort than that.
My simplifications are:
-Steve
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