Just an underpowered table saw?

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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

Plus they're so *nice* now. All glass inside, well-designed shelves, doors that can hold useful things, even at the bottom of the price spectrum. I was floored when our old '70-something fridge died and I had to go look at replacements.
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Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < snipped-for-privacy@users.sourceforge.net>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
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Ron wrote:

How far is the plug from the load center and what's it's rating?
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Mark

N.E. Ohio
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Ron, check the belt tension, put a rip blade in your saw. If the belt is loose you won't get full power to the saw. You still should be able to rip 3/4" poplar with a sharp combination blade. Use a rip blade if you have more than a couple of rips. mike
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I have noticed a lot of great replies and only have one thing to add. Are you using a long/cheap extension cord? The wrong cord can cause a lot of power drop.
Bob McBreen

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then you want it to cut into your hand" I try to keep the blade no more then 1/8 inch above the wood and lower when I can. While I know that this is a safety issue not a effency issue I have never had a problem keeping the blade at a low angle when cutting.
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Sweet Sawdust wrote:

The wisdom on this is,
1) No higher than you want the blade to cut through your hand. The problem is the wood will want to climb on top of the blade (lift at the feeding end) and once it's up there it likes to go fast quick (like the Rock 'N Roller Coaster at Disney Whirled).
2) Blade high enough to expose the saw blade gullets. This puts the blade high enough to force the wood down onto the table. In other words, the blade is acting as a hold down.
I use both as required, i.e., the closer the fence is to the wood (under 2"ish) I like to have the blade lower onna 'count of I'm a pussy. When there's more real estate 'tween me and the blade I raise it, sometimes as high as it will go (3 1/8"ish).
UA100
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Unisaw 100 writes:

When the real estate twixt my fingers and the blade approaches 5", I reach for the push stick and featherboards, if the latter aren't already in use. I've seen a great many people run stuff through much closer than that, but it makes me feel nervous just to watch, though I know in particular cases the person has already done this several thousand times in a 60 year career as a woodworker or trainee.
Charlie Self
"Say what you will about the ten commandments, you must always come back to the pleasant fact that there are only ten of them." H. L. Mencken
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Charlie Self wrote:

Back right after my Dad taught me how to measure from the miter slots to the fence he taught me to hang my pinkie and ring finger over the fence which I do to this day. I have a Biesemeyer and on the short list is changing out the faces so my digits have something a little more substantial to hang onto.
UA100
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Check your fence alighment. If it cuts on the upstroke as you pull the peice out, it is not alighned correctly. It should be about 1/16 inch further from the mitre groove on the outfeed end than the infeed end. I was watching the Forrest blade guy, at the woodworking show, last week. He said .003 over the length of the blade. He demoed both ways, one burned the wood, tapered away cut clean. He was ripping a 2 1/2 inch block of maple with his combination blade. It would shave off a sliver you could see light through. Dan
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Colorado Springs, CO My advice may be worth what you paid for it.
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On Tue, 02 Dec 2003 12:05:49 -0700, Dan Dunphy

I run mine as parallel as I can get them. no burning.     Bridger
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