Plus they're so *nice* now. All glass inside, well-designed shelves, doors
that can hold useful things, even at the bottom of the price spectrum. I
was floored when our old '70-something fridge died and I had to go look at
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < email@example.com>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Ron, check the belt tension, put a rip blade in your saw. If the belt
is loose you won't get full power to the saw. You still should be able
to rip 3/4" poplar with a sharp combination blade. Use a rip blade if
you have more than a couple of rips.
My old shop teacher said that " the blade should be no higher above the wood
then you want it to cut into your hand" I try to keep the blade no more
then 1/8 inch above the wood and lower when I can. While I know that this
is a safety issue not a effency issue I have never had a problem keeping the
blade at a low angle when cutting.
The wisdom on this is,
1) No higher than you want the blade to cut through your
hand. The problem is the wood will want to climb on top of
the blade (lift at the feeding end) and once it's up there
it likes to go fast quick (like the Rock 'N Roller Coaster
at Disney Whirled).
2) Blade high enough to expose the saw blade gullets. This
puts the blade high enough to force the wood down onto the
table. In other words, the blade is acting as a hold down.
I use both as required, i.e., the closer the fence is to the
wood (under 2"ish) I like to have the blade lower onna
'count of I'm a pussy. When there's more real estate 'tween
me and the blade I raise it, sometimes as high as it will go
When the real estate twixt my fingers and the blade approaches 5", I reach for
the push stick and featherboards, if the latter aren't already in use. I've
seen a great many people run stuff through much closer than that, but it makes
me feel nervous just to watch, though I know in particular cases the person has
already done this several thousand times in a 60 year career as a woodworker or
"Say what you will about the ten commandments, you must always come back to the
pleasant fact that there are only ten of them." H. L. Mencken
Back right after my Dad taught me how to measure from the
miter slots to the fence he taught me to hang my pinkie and
ring finger over the fence which I do to this day. I have a
Biesemeyer and on the short list is changing out the faces
so my digits have something a little more substantial to
Check your fence alighment. If it cuts on the upstroke as you pull the
peice out, it is not alighned correctly. It should be about 1/16 inch
further from the mitre groove on the outfeed end than the infeed end.
I was watching the Forrest blade guy, at the woodworking show, last
week. He said .003 over the length of the blade. He demoed both ways,
one burned the wood, tapered away cut clean. He was ripping a 2 1/2
inch block of maple with his combination blade. It would shave off a
sliver you could see light through.
Colorado Springs, CO
My advice may be worth what you paid for it.
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