My old shop teacher said that " the blade should be no higher above the wood then you want it to cut into your hand" I try to keep the blade no more then 1/8 inch above the wood and lower when I can. While I know that this is a safety issue not a effency issue I have never had a problem keeping the blade at a low angle when cutting.
I know.
The point is that the rating is not attainable in actual, real world use.
Drag racers get 5000 HP from an engine for 4-6 seconds, then they completely rebuild the engine. Using power tool logic, many typical V8's could be sold as 3,4, or 5000 HP engines.
Go to the rail yard or harbor and see what thousands of horsepower on a continuous and dependable basis looks like.
Barry
The wisdom on this is,
1) No higher than you want the blade to cut through your hand. The problem is the wood will want to climb on top of the blade (lift at the feeding end) and once it's up there it likes to go fast quick (like the Rock 'N Roller Coaster at Disney Whirled).2) Blade high enough to expose the saw blade gullets. This puts the blade high enough to force the wood down onto the table. In other words, the blade is acting as a hold down.
I use both as required, i.e., the closer the fence is to the wood (under 2"ish) I like to have the blade lower onna 'count of I'm a pussy. When there's more real estate 'tween me and the blade I raise it, sometimes as high as it will go (3 1/8"ish).
UA100
When the real estate twixt my fingers and the blade approaches 5", I reach for the push stick and featherboards, if the latter aren't already in use. I've seen a great many people run stuff through much closer than that, but it makes me feel nervous just to watch, though I know in particular cases the person has already done this several thousand times in a 60 year career as a woodworker or trainee.
Charlie Self
"Say what you will about the ten commandments, you must always come back to the pleasant fact that there are only ten of them." H. L. Mencken
Plus they're so *nice* now. All glass inside, well-designed shelves, doors that can hold useful things, even at the bottom of the price spectrum. I was floored when our old '70-something fridge died and I had to go look at replacements.
yep. a REAL 6 HP motor is as big as a 30 gallon trash can and runs on
3 phase, prolly 440V.... the motors in those "6 HP" shopvacs are about as big as your fist.
Back right after my Dad taught me how to measure from the miter slots to the fence he taught me to hang my pinkie and ring finger over the fence which I do to this day. I have a Biesemeyer and on the short list is changing out the faces so my digits have something a little more substantial to hang onto.
UA100
I fixed the alignment problem on the splitter (with a hammer and a Dremel) and re-attached it. I believe this helped also. I then swapped blades with my Freud 60 tooth thin-kerf blade and cut through some 3/4" maple plywood pretty nicely. The biggest problem was keeping the 4' x 4' sheet snug against the guard while cutting of a 12" wide piece,but, got the wife to help for that. This project is for her kitchen ;)
ThankX again all for the suggestions, Ron
Colorado Springs, CO My advice may be worth what you paid for it.
I run mine as parallel as I can get them. no burning. Bridger
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