A while back I posted a couple of questions on using hand planes in lieu of
a jointer to joint some large boards. I was faced with the need to joint up
some 8' long pieces on a 44" bed length 6" jointer. I was considering
moving up to an 72" bed on an 8" jointer (powematic) but opted to try the
hand plane route. I went the way of a LN scrub, #7 jointer and LV 5 1/4 for
I wanted to thank all of the folks that repsonded to my queries and passed
on advice. While I won't claim to be an expert In a resonable amount of
time I am now able to joint the boards as needed. What has surprised me the
most is the relative ease of using the planes over trying to monkey the
boards accross the short bed jointer.
Besides a general thank you I also wanted to pass on to anyone else in a
similar predicament not to shy away from the hand plane route.
and for Mike in Mystic -- yes the LN planes offered an "ethereal experience"
Eric (who now needs a bigger tool box -- being hooked on planes, the
collection is growing rapidly........)
I've got this bizarre picture in my head of some techo-neaderthal with a
huge slab of lumber clamped in a vice. He's holding a 8" jointer upside
down in one hand and running it over the edge of the board like a huge
Must be too much caffeine, or too little, or something.
As someone who can barely manage to use a hand plane to fix a sticking
door, I greatly appreciate your post. It follows another recent post that
referenced some sources on how to learn to use a hand plane. I am truly
stumped as to how 8' boards can be successfully jointed by anyone but a
very experienced ww'er, and all the more so by your story. I AM intrigued.
Thanks for taking the time to relate your experience. -- Igor
PS: These days, with the out-of-pocket costs of basic video production so
low - from camera to desktop editing to DVD burners - as well as the ease
of posting sample clips on-line, I am hopeful that ww video how-to's
covering all sorts of basic and adv skills will be coming to market.
On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 21:11:20 -0400, "Sam the Cat"
The cost of production hardware and software has come down over the years
but labour, packaging and distribution still make up the bulk of production
costs. Also, you won't find much on the market that's been burned on a home
I think the best opportunity here is likely non-commercial, and web-based.
Packaging and distribution costs are modest to non-existant, and most of
the potential 'producers' are the same sorts of folks that put up the
marvelous web sites we see today. And most of them do it for the joy of
sharing their craft, and seeing skills passed on to others.
However, don't understimate the costs of even modest video editing gear.
While I have a very well-equipped shop, with very few missing capital power
tools, I believe that my sons' video editing setups likely cost easily as
much. And the video investment depreciates much more rapidly than a 3hp
cabinet saw. If there were not a commercial aspect to it, it would be a
VERY expensive hobby.
Well, for home-made stuff, video software (to be run on a mid-level
Pentium4 machine) can be had for <$100. The software will let you take
clips, cut them, and then stitch each segment together. All with sound.
And, even with background music!!! OTOH, I am sure your son's stuff is on
the sophisticated side. Maybe a Binford?
BTW, while you are certainly correct about the *market value* depreciation
of software, if it still does the job then it works for me. I use vintage
1995 CAD software for design and generation of patent drawings and 1995 PIM
software for my address book, journal, and data organization, and they work
(and are the most stable stuff I have) even on XP machines. (Both
companies went out of business, so updates ain't available.) -- Igor
Multiple multi-processor Macs, multiple monitors each. Cameras, recorders,
mikes, lights, hardware stands, lots of software, etc. And also many of
the same tools running in the Windows environment, with associated
So, yes. A Binford. But they are doing commercial work...
Start up costs are really in the becoming proficient process - the learning
curve. Making video look like it was shot by someone who didn't start
yesterday is not a simple process.
But then, designing a custom display cabinet isn't either.
who's a little bit proud of our boys...
All true. But, look at some of the woodworking websites done pro bono --
lots of time and some website skills. Look at woodshopdemos.com.
Packaging and distribution can be done easily, IMO. Of course, "easily" is
essentially a relative term. The remaining issue is (and will be) time.
All I'm saying is that for someone inclined to spend the time, the options
are there at very little out-of-pocket expense. Like the person here who
until recently sold a shim for a biscuit joiner. And with broadband
connections and easy setup credit card-taking options such as Yahoo Stores,
I think that home-made video how-to's can become a good cottage industry.
And, some might like to offer it for free on-line, especially as bandwidth
costs drop. Think about the people here who, when asked, or just on their
own, take and post photos of their jigs, for example. I can certainly see
someone here posting a short video showing how they sharpen their chisels.
Anyway, IMO. -- Igor
I agree with you that the cost of consumer level and even prosumer level
production costs are relatively low, but the OP mentioned he was hopeful
these videos were "coming to market" by which I assumed he meant a
I found that edge jointing with a long hand plane (#8C in my case) is
surprisingly easy. However, face jointing is much trickier, i.m.e.
In either case, you need a sharp iron and you need to read the grain.
Many already exist. Search (the web) and ye shall find.
I was nervous as well Igor, especially since the #7 I bought from LieNeilson
cost as much as my 13" lunchbox planer from delta!
If you want to get started there are a couple pieces of advice I'd pass on
from my _month_ of experience ;) If you do not have someone readily
available to show you the way then buy yourself a _nice_ plane. Get a LN or
a LV, both work like a dream right out of the box. This will give you a
sense of how it should work, then if you want to go the refurb route you'll
know when you got it right. The next thing to note is how fine a cut the
plane can make (this took me a while to figure out) You will make piles of
little curlies and think you are wasting wood away, until you put one of
those curlies in calipers -- on average I hit 0.005". Once I realized this
I went back to the catalogs and found the scrub plane -- best investment.
Only used for removing a lot of wood, this light weight beast can get you in
the ball park of flat before the jointer takes over. I usually use three
planes, the scrub, then a 5.25 followed by the 7 jointer. Each one is
heavier and longer than the last and thus takes more energy to use. Using
the scrub to get in the ball park really helps. I relate this to using 80
to 100 grit sandpaper to "get it right" then the higher grits to smooth
One last bit is to make sure you lube the sole of the plane -- I was using
paste wax but was recently guided to using harder wax. The difference is
night and day -- the first time I used a waxed 7 (after using unwaxed since
I bought it) I almost threw is across the room as it just flew across the
board with a lot less effort -- really reduces the work load.....
FWIW, I use paraffin (from the canning section of the grocery
store) on my plane soles, and my planes levitate. :-)
I just "draw" a couple of "S" shapes on the sole with a hunk of the
stuff that I always keep on my bench. It never gets sticky and it
takes about a second to renew.
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