I am making the top for a hall table and the boards I bought today are both
9.5" wide. The top needs to be 14.5" wide.
If I am going to face joint the lumber, here is the problem: My jointer is
only 6" wide so ideally I would have liked to have purchased three 5" wide
boards, but didn't think about that at the lumber store.
Now I am stuck with the possibility of having to split the two 9.5" wide
boards and join 4 to make the top. I don't wanna do that.
Can I face join half the board and flip it around to do the other side? I
would have to remove the cutter guard, and say a prayer, but...
Can it be done?
Yes. Carefully. _Light_ cuts. You may need lots of finesse (and thicker
stock), but you set the fence back a little more than 1/2 the width of
your stock, and keep checking your progress. Put it through a thickness
planer or sneak up on the difference with a hand plane. Watch that
cutterhead! But what's so hard about rip and glue? You'd probably save
in stock thickness. Tom
It's possible I'm being a little silly, but I thought the two glue ups
versus 4 would look nicer because the (birds eye maple) figure would flow
I think I will probably end up ripping and jointing 4-boards.
Bird's *invented* tearout. :-(
Scraping and sanding after using an extremely sharp hand plane and
wetting it down is the only way to go, IME. YMMV.
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
One of my suppliers, a very large factory where they make kitchen and
bathroom cabinet doors, they use drum sanders in the initial stages of
finishing completed doors before they go through the TimeSavers for the
Another fellow I know uses a drum sander to take the glazing off freshly
planed maple boards.... again, surface treatment, not dimensioning.
Does that answer your question, Dave?
Does it have any obvious problems that make face jointing necessary? Are
they cupped and/or bowed appreciably? If not, skip the jointer and plane
them.It seems to be popular these days to say you have to joint everything,
that the planer won't help. That's BS. If the wood is strait enough to go
through the planer without rocking, you will be fine. I don't own a jointer.
Have never felt a big need (though I have used them). If it rocks when you
set it on the bench, take down the high spots with a plane. Perfectly flat
is NOT necessary.
They dont appear to be. The planer should remove any mild cupping, but not
any bowing.?. If there is mild bowing it might be straigtened when fastened
to the table frame. But this might put stress on the frame (tweak
alignment) and cause the four legs not to touch the floor level.
Sight down the length of the board. Is it strait? You can see amazingly
small variations. If you see any problems, plane (hand) off the high spots.
If it is as strait as you can see and it tweaks anything, your structure has
I have seen various articles on the net about using a router as a jointer
for wide boards. Off the top of my head, I believe it is a basic frame
that surrounds the wood to be planed. The frame is obviously perfectly
flat. The router is then used as a jointer by riding on the frame and
removing the high spots.
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