Jointing problems

Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

Reply to
Han
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It sounds like you infeed table of the jointer is out of adjustment.

Reply to
Nova

First thing to try:

Providing the machine/tables are setup properly, the infeed and outfeed combined may not long enough for the board length, and possibly your technique.

From your description, it sounds as if you may be inadvertently applying downward pressure over the knives in the middle of the pass ... it doesn't take much to get the symptom you are describing above.

Try another pass: when the leading edge of the board passes to the outfeed table to the point where there is enough room (about a third of half way), smoothly transfer one hand, then the other, so that _both_ are on the outfeed table, and far enough away from the knives so that any downward pressure on the board is transferred to the outfeed table only.

See if that doesn't help ... if it doesn't, then you either have a setup problem, or the length of the boards are just to great for the size of the machine ... however, you can often overcome this with practiced technique.

A plane would work, but may take more technique, so either check the jointer setup, or practice your technique on some scrap until you get the results you're looking for.

Reply to
Swingman

OOPs! make that outfeed table.

Reply to
Nova

Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were

1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to be even better than FLAT. With that in mind, I would hack out wood away from the middle, of course, the same amount on each side. Maybe a final pass through the jointer, smoothing off just 1/32" with your goal in mind. Then see how two of them clamp.

Please let me know how works out! Hopefully, someone will correct me if I'm too far off base. Good luck! And, careful on the "hacking" part! : )

Bill

Reply to
Bill

Bill wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news6.newsguy.com:

Thanks, guys!

Reply to
Han

Swingman wrote in news:UM6dnW0u8pq71lvNnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

I haven't done too many of these operations, but they worked before ...

That's probably it!

Thanks, Karl! I'll try again ...

Reply to
Han

You have this backwards. You want a "sprung" joint, such that the ends contact before the middle. 1/16" is a bit much for a sprung joint, however;

1/64th-1/32nd would be better. There are opinions on both sides of the sprung-joint story.

scott

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

Han wrote in news:XnsA1259E480E76Fikkezelf@8.17.249.105:

I tried re-jointing, but I think the beds of the jointer aren't long enough. I started a glue-up as a trial with 3 boards (I need a few inches more later). When the glue has dried, I'll saw along the glueline with my fancy Freud blade to make "jointed" edges, then re-glue the boards. I have another shelf to make and the not yet jointed boards line up better ... I tried to make a better shelf, and muffed it up on the first try. Oh well trial and error hits again.

Reply to
Han

snipped-for-privacy@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal) wrote in news:Xgsxs.9498$ snipped-for-privacy@fe26.iad:

Thanks for the encouragement, Scott!

Reply to
Han

05: > Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak > jo= inted to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but > have = 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this > jointing on= my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane? I tried re-jointing, bu= t I think the beds of the jointer aren't long enough. I started a glue-up a= s a trial with 3 boards (I need a few inches more later). When the glue has= dried, I'll saw along the glueline with my fancy Freud blade to make "join= ted" edges, then re-glue the boards. I have another shelf to make and the n= ot yet jointed boards line up better ... I tried to make a better shelf, an= d muffed it up on the first try. Oh well trial and error hits again. -- Bes= t regards Han email address is invalid

When you joint, get your down pressure onto the outfeed table as soon as po= ssible then pull the bord across the blades with pressure down in the foirs= t few inches to mid point of outfeed table.

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but > have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this > jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane? I tried re-jointing, but I think the beds of the jointer aren't long enough. I started a glue-up as a trial with 3 boards (I need a few inches more later). When the glue has dried, I'll saw along the glueline with my fancy Freud blade to make "jointed" edges, then re-glue the boards. I have another shelf to make and the not yet jointed boards line up better ... I tried to make a better shelf, and muffed it up on the first try. Oh well trial and error hits again. -- Best regards Han email address is invalid

possible then pull the bord across the blades with pressure down in the foirst few inches to mid point of outfeed table.

i wonder if a hold down, similar to board buddies, would be a good idea to make this an easier repeatable task.

Reply to
chaniarts

------------------------------------------------------------------- If this is that 4" wide, benchtop jointer, then your 42" long board is the problem.

I always had the same problem on boards much over 30" long.

I ended up using a straight edge and a router with a pattern bit.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

I used to straighten my boards with a piece of 12" wide plywood and my TS. Clamp the board to the plywood with the edge you want to straighten overhanging the plywood. Run the edge of the plywood against the rip fence.

Now I use my Festool track saw. ;~)

Reply to
Leon

perfect. I like a sprung joint since the ends shrink faster than the middle. Hard to say what you did wrong.

Reply to
tiredofspam

Interesting Bill. But very confusing.. fatter in the middle?????

in my mind a sprung joint is better. especially in the summer, less so in the winter. Wood shrinks faster at the ends.

so having an extra swipe with a hand plane in the center is desirable .

living in the NE it's highly desirable... In Louisiana maybe not.

Reply to
tiredofspam

I explored a little, and evidently I had it backwards (so Han is doing it right)! My bad.

Reply to
Bill

I realize now I mixed up with the concept of "clamping cauls". That's the problem with beginners... %-)

Reply to
Bill

Are you talking edge jointing? Sled and tablesaw.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

If you can get that down to a fat 64th, you've done it just right - compressing that gap with clamps puts enough pressure on the ends to ensure that they won't separate over time.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

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