jointing on router, another question


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I was talking to you guys the other day about how to do that and my problem was my fence is one piece. Was thinking, can I create a sub fence, making the outfeel level with the blad and under the infeed side of the fence making a shim out of aluminm trim covering under it. Wouldnt that makt it stick out the required 1/32 inch? Just a thought.
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x-no-archive:yes
I was talking to you guys the other day about how to do that and my problem was my fence is one piece. Was thinking, can I create a sub fence, making the outfeel level with the blad and under the infeed side of the fence making a shim out of aluminm trim covering under it. Wouldnt that makt it stick out the required 1/32 inch? Just a thought.
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A bit of advice - I think you are starting to get some people ticked off with all your posts. You have asked for a lot of advice about a lot of different things. Its obvious you have not taken any of the advice and tried anything. Take a few steps back - Make a decision. Make some sawdust. Report back what your decision was whose advice you followed. Thank them for the advice. Move on and try your next step. Make some mistakes. You will learn from your mistakes. Move on with your project(s), take some pictures. Come back here for advice when you really have an impasse. This group is not just about you. We all have varying levels of skills, experience and time to devote reading and posting here. By getting people frustrated with noise they will be less inclined to help others in the future and the quality of this group will decline. I know some HAVE abandoned this group who were superior woodworkers due to the junk, whining, span, flames and what not.
To answer your question above.
Yes. Nuf said.
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Sure. That's what I do, with a piece of veneer instead of aluminum trim behind the subface. I'm a little unclear on your post, though - you want the extra piece of trim behind the OUTFEED side of the fence (i.e. the left side when you look at your router table). Google router table jointer, and look in the archives here. Get a good straight bit or a spiral upcut bit. Practice until it works, or until you realize how you need to modify it to get it to work. Also, according to my experience, plan on this bed project taking at LEAST 4 times as long as you think it should. Andy
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I'm afraid I have to agree with "No" that many people are probably already ignoring you (or kill-filing your messages) because you ask so many basic questions without apparently doing much research or looking in the archives first. Thought I'd offer another general resource that might be helpful - go to highlandhardware.com and look in their "Library" section - they have a large variety of articles I've found helpful. Good luck, Andy
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x-no-archive:yes
So, standing at the table, the left side should be shimmed 1/32 past the blade, and the right side should be level with the blade, right? I tried it with a piiece of shim before but the wood kept getting caught on the shim and it did not produce a good finish at all. Andy wrote:

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No the left side should be even with the blade. If you put a straight edge on the outfeed side it should just "kiss" the blade. On the infeed side is where the 1/32" gap should be. Unfortunately there is no where for really new wood workers to go to. Many of the "experts" here get annoyed by beginner questions. Don't worry you have to start somewhere. Keep asking.

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x-no-archive:yes
Thanks for the help! I really am trying to learn. But I am confused. Earlier in this thred someone told me to place the shim on the "left" side of the fence. (Which I assume is the outfeed side.)
So you are saying the shim which allows the right side of the fence to stick out should be on the right or infeed side? Rich wrote:

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On 17 Feb 2006 12:38:19 -0800, stryped wrote:

No. The shim goes on the outfeed side. The outfeed side is set so its even with the cutter. The infeed side will then be BEHIND the cutter by an amount equal to the thickness of the shim you put on the outfeed side. This is also the maximum thickness of material that will be removed by the cutter.
--
Art


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Fri, Feb 17, 2006, 10:59am (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (stryped) doth mumble: x-no-archive:yes I was talking to you guys the other day <snip> Just a thought.
Instead of you asking about every single thing that crosses your mind, how about you going to the archives, and doing a bit of looking for what ever confuses you? Most, if not all, of it has been beaten to death, several times. That'll save a lot of questions, and you will start to learn how to get answers on your own. Just a thought. http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search?as_ugroup=rec.woodworking&lr=&num0 SAVE THE LINK>
JOAT IThere is no vaccine against stupidity!
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Well JOAT I see your manners haven't improved in the 10 years or so you have been hanging out here. Someone actually asks a woodworking related question and you berate him. His questions sure beat the hell out of your posting war with some crazy about war, dead soldiers, buttercups and gays.
This is a woodworking news group, or do you feel that all the questions have already been answered?
Bob
(stryped) doth

http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search?as_ugroup=rec.woodworking&lr=&num0
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RB Jones wrote:

Not likely but the OP's have. Time after time after time after time...
--
dadiOH
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stryped wrote:

Do you ever bother to read what people tell you or do you just like to post? You were already told how to fix your one piece fence.
1/32 not required, thought is.
-- dadiOH ____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
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What is "x-no-archive:yes" ?? And why do you do it??
--
Stoutman
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He never answers that.
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Me thinks we should stop answering him!
--
Stoutman
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Locutus wrote: He never answers that. Fear of an electronic trail? "Just because you're paranoid, it doesn't mean they're not out to get you". Tom
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stoutman wrote:

It's to prevent the message from being archived.

To keep current denseness from biting him in the ass in the future?
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wrote:

Since he's posting from Google, with a throwaway email address, I doubt the future is a worry.
The "no archive" flag could also keep his repetitive trolling questions from biting him in the ass NOW. <G> If you ask the same thing, slightly reworded, three days in a row, you don't want others to point you back at it.
I suspect that most of these trolls are actually experienced woodworkers and possibly even someone who "left" the group with his panties in a wad. The questions often touch on topics that newbies ask all the time, but the troll will keep adding innane details to drag it on.
I've seen similar trolls on groups covering all kinds of subjects. One that I actually liked used to occasionally ask how to keep his beer cold and where to hide his weed while flying large scale model airplanes on a radio control forum.
Want to see a group that's REALLY been destroyed with politics? Check out rec.autos.toyota. Serious name calling can be found on any radio group, and especially alt.radio.satellite
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That is so his posts will not archive. Once they drop off here, they are gone.

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