Nope, never even seen one but I share your curiosity.
Typically when I do see one for sale it's always priced
about the same, $200ish. The real down side as I see it
though is getting/finding replacement cutters.
Seems like they get a bad rap all the time though.
I think it all depends on the quality of the equipment and the user
technique. So far I have never been able to get my jointer to leave a shiny
reflective surface on the edge of a board. I see this regularly with my TS.
And yes, this is along the ripped edge.
If you are unable to get your jointer to improve the edge and the edge is as
Leon describes, why bother. However, my point is, when the situation, wood
condition and other factors leave the edge unsutiable after ripping, a
jointer will solve the problem.
I have been cutting glueable edges with my table saw for years. Mainly
because, until now, I have not had a decent jointer. It takes a good blade
and a deliberate, smooth feed through the blade. Quite often, I ended up
making more than one pass to get a good edge. Occasionally I ended up
sweeping a lot of the "glueable edge" off the floor before I got there.
Tomorrow morning I'll finish setting up my new Powermatic 54A. It should be
better than the 50 year old Craftsman 4" it replaced.
Time and time again? Nope, don't agree. Many times I get an edge I
can't improve upon off the saw. Sometimes not. The "improved" edge I
get off the jointer is no better than the really good ones I get off the
Even though you may believe that the jointer will win over the table
saw, you also say that if all things are quality, the jointer will be
the best cut still. Well, I have made cuts with my forest blades both
on my CMS and table saw and have been told that the wood I cut was
sanded with a 220 grit sandpaper.
After you have purchased a forest blade, you will wonder why you have a
jointer other than to put a straight edge on rough lumber that you want
to run through your table saw to get two parallel sides that both look
like they have has a 220 grit sandpaper on. Suggestion: get yourself s
forest blade for your table saw and then ask yourself this question.
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All right. Enough. I almost surrender. As I've said in another thread,
I've never seen the need to own a Forrest blade or any other "name" blade.
Always found the lesser blade to be sufficient. But... I just keep
hearing - well, reading about these named blades, so I have to ask. Just
exactly what are you guys seeing when you go to these blades that I'm
missing out on? I've gotten great life out of my blades over time, I get
cuts that I have considered to be excellent - as I said, I can often glue up
right off the saw. Sometimes I do have to hand plane an edge but that seems
to be more because I fed the board inconsistently. All things are relative
though. Great life, good edges, etc. are all compared to what would result
from, oh say... breaking the board over one's knee. My table saw certainly
provides a nicer edge than that would. More specifically, what have you
guys seen or been impressed with when you went from a blade you were very
please with to a Forrest or another named blade?
In my experience a Freud, better DeWalt, etc... ($50-$60), and a
Forrest, Systematic, or other "pro shop" blade ($100+), all start out
cutting very nicely. A few hours of cutting later is when the
difference becomes apparent. The $50 blade is still cutting OK, the
better blade is still sweeeet!
Sometimes, all it takes is one very difficult board to show the
difference. Woods that are prone to chip out or burning can magnify
I actually lived in the same camp as you, until I finally broke down
and bought a WWII. FWIW, my local fine woodworking school prefers
Systematic and Ridge Carbide blades over Forrest, and he's got them
My experience, too, but with Freud 410 blades instead of Forrest.
Anyone looking for SystiMatic blades: I wish you better luck than I had. They
seem to have been bought by Simonds and turned into a sawmill brand with
"There are two ways of exerting one's strength: one is pushing down, the other
is pulling up." Booker T. Washington
If your saw has excessive run out and or is not set up properly, no blade is
going to improve your cut. But if your saw is in good shape and properly
"tuned", you will probably see the difference between a top quality blade
and a so-so blade. Basically the Forrest stays sharp much longer. This
equates to getting better looking cut edges for a longer period of time
between sharpenings. In my case, I simply do not see any tooth marks and
the surface is as smooth as glass regardless if you are ripping or cross
cutting. Naturally there are times that you will see tooth marks but that
is usually because the board not perfectly straight or flat. I seldom if
ever have to sand cut edges any more and IMHO that alone is worth the extra
cost of the Forrest blade.
as I said, I can often glue up
Often glue up right off the saw? Is there another way. LOL I always glue
up right off the saw.
Sometimes I do have to hand plane an edge but that seems
This can happen with any blade and especially if the board is not straight
I do have several Forrest blades and they perform very well. I am after-all
an un-repentant tool junkie. I also have other very high quality blades
that out perform the Forrest. (Relax everyone, the differences are very
small and not worth describing in this thread.)
My point was, not whether a table saw could in some cases, produce an edge
that was as good as a jointer, but that time and time again, a jointer will
consistantly produce a better quality surface.
For glue-ups, the table saw can produce in most cases, produce a sutiable
edge. What about the wood that decides not to cooperate?
My uneducated guess would be that if you could get that good of a
square edge on a good table saw, the guys that do quality work all
have jointers that they're wasting time with...
Every web page that I've looked at relating to this and related
groups, there is both a saw and jointer... (and a surface planer
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