Jointer usage question

I recently purchased a used Delta 37-190 6" jointer. I need to edge joint a 6' long board. The finished board needs to be 6' so I can't cut it to do the job in smaller sections if that is relevant. My question is about where you apply downward pressure with your hand. Do you do it on the outfeed side of the jointer or the infeed side? Thanks.
Dick Snyder
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On 1/18/2013 8:43 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:

Start the board on the infeed side, with both hands applying light downward pressure, and lateral pressure in the direction of the fence, on the infeed side.
Without pausing, and _as soon as enough of the board has passed the cutter head to safely do so_, transfer one, then the other hand, applying the same downward and lateral pressure on the outfeed side
Finish up the pass with both hands on the outfeed side.
Make practice cuts on some scrap to perfect your technique.
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Thanks Karl. Very helpful. I'll do my practice before I do the 6' board.
Dick
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On 1/18/2013 9:37 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:

Although your question was strictly about hand placement, Pat had an excellent point ... tool setup, then technique. ;)
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On Fri, 18 Jan 2013 10:37:15 -0500, "Dick Snyder"

Dick, follow that advice but don't use your -hands- near a planer blade. Use push blocks like these, instead. (see below) They're made for that purpose and are much, much safer, should your board slip. There is no repair for a hand which has met a planer blade.
http://tinyurl.com/a6wq4y4 At Amazon, get a pair for $10.50 (One for each hand.)
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On Friday, January 18, 2013 9:25:48 AM UTC-8, Larry Jaques wrote:
This is edge jointing. Push blocks would be very dangerous. Use your hands for sure. Face jointing, yes, always. Just to many ways you can loose lots o' flesh and bone.
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On 1/18/2013 1:21 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Asolutely ...
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On 1/18/2013 9:37 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:

joint
...
And, if the edge is concave, to make it simpler to get started, set depth to a shallow cut and start in the middle at the high point and work to each end--you'll take the high points off first and then you can work the whole length a final pass or two to get a glue edge.
Conversely, if there's significant bow convex, use a straight edge or snap a chalk line and take a few passes to approach the line first and get roughly parallel to it.
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See no.11 for starters: http://patwarner.com/faq.html ********************************************************

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On 1/18/2013 8:43 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:

As an alternative, Cut the board to length and straighten it on the TS. 6" is plenty short enough that the rip fence will act just like the fence on your jointer. Cut the bowed out side first and then cut the other side to the proper width.
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Thanks to all of you for your very helpful advice!!!
Dick Snyder
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