I recently bought a used jointer so I don't have a lot of experience using a
jointer yet. This is a "newbie" question.
I needed a little extra mahogany to make the legs of the third and final
table in a set of stacking tables I am making. I had a left over mahogany
2x4 so I cut a 24" piece off of it. When I put it down on a flat surface I
could see that there was a twist in the wider (3 1/2") side of the board. If
I pushed on opposite corners at each end of the 24" piece it would rock. I
thought I could flatten it with my jointer so I made a number of very fine
passes. I had scribbled pencil marks on the side I was passing over the
jointer knives so I could see when the knives had gotten everything. After
awhile I saw that while I was flattening the wide piece of the board, it was
not square to the thinner (1 1/2") edge. In fact one thinner edge was wider
than the opposing edge. I'm guessing I was pushing down on the twist in
different ways when I passed it through the jointer. Should I have ripped
the 2x4 into separate smaller pieces so that the twist was not so dramatic?
Then I could run each piece thru the jointer and glue them back up. I'm not
sure what I should have done. Your help would be appreciated.
Twist is hard to deal with, and you *will* end up with a thinner board.
To maximize your yield, you want to take equal amounts off each of the
diagonal corners that touch the jointer tables.
This can be difficult to do by feel, but there is a trick that can make
it easier. If your infeed table is long enough, rock the board back and
forth until the two corners that don't touch the table are the same
distance from the table, then put a shim under the rear raised corner.
Now make one pass, taking off a reasonable amount of material. This
will give you two flat spots, which should be enough to let you keep the
stock level for successive passes.
In this case yes, that's a good solution given that the entire board
will probably fit on either the infeed or outfeed table of the jointer.
For me it's a lot more fun to break out the Stanley/Bailey fore plane
or jointer plane to knock down those opposing corners before taking it
to the power jointer.
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
I don't think you need to worry about your edges being different
widths yet, because you still need to plane the non-jointed face.
Ripping a twisted workpiece can be exciting on a tablesaw, less so on
a bandsaw. The generally accepted method is to face-joint, then edge-
joint with the newly jointed face against a 90 degree fence, plane the
opposite face in your planer, then rip the remaining edge parallel to
the jointed edge. There are other orders of work you might employ if
the grain is wonky, e.g. face-joint, plane, edge-joint, rip. You'll
get it. HTH Tom
Twist is about the worse thing to correct. Fasten the twisted board
to a perfectly flat and true board to create a straight edge that can
ride against the fence. You'll eventually end up with a smaller
profile. Putting a twisted board through the table saw is not a good
idea either. You could use a hand plane to get *some* of the twist
out--that will make it both safer and easier on your jointer.
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