Yeah, I'm right there with ya, Leon. I have an 8" Grizz that replaced
an 8 " Delta and the sumbitch hardly gets used at all.
I'm working in a production environment now and all the glue joints
are done on a stright line ripsaw.
The joints are perfect.
Even before that I would hotmelt a fence onto something that I wanted
to joint on the tablesaw, rather than use the jointer.
I did my face prep on a lunchbox planer and took the high side down
slow until it got level and then flipped it. It was a lot easier and
wound up being more accurate.
If anyone wants to buy a hardly used Grizz 8", I'm entertaining
LOL Tom I think for many of us the jointer is a machine that we haf'ta
have and then 20 or so years later realize that there are often easier ways
to achieve the same results with out using the jointer and then there it
sets. I really and truly have kept it around because it is heavy and I used
to keep the "shop dog" tied up to it, that was its purpose in my shop. The
current Great Dane is a puss and really does not care that much for the
shop. I think I used my "PC DETAIL SANDER" more than my jointer if that
tells you any thing. You are thinking of selling yours, I am considering
giving mine away. Like minds. ;~)
Tom, I think you are right across the river from me,
given that, I would make an offer but it wouldn't fit and like
the carrier, part would have to stick out the door to be able to use
it, With the rains we have, I'd never be able to afford the top coat
I have an old iron Rockwell Delta 6" jointer. It is not the least used
tool in my shop but perhaps is the least needed tool. I'd say my lathe
is the least used but when I need a lathe, you need a lathe. It's rare
I actually "need" my jointer and it would be one of the last tools I
I generally don't need to joint stuff ripped on the Tsaw, but I often do
it because it is super easy and it's right there.
That makes no sense to me, unless your jointer is not in the right
place, or not set up right?
I seldom use the jointer to face plane anything other than logs I
salvage from fire wood, pallets and what not. I'll joint one face, then
use that face to make a 90 and then it's easy to rip on the BS or TS.
When buying S2S lumber it's the tool to clean up an edge with no muss or
fuss to prep for cutting. I can't imagine hot melting a fence to do
this on a TS if you have a jointer at hand?
I also used it a lot when I used to rip everything with a cheap 8 tooth
carbide blade. That blade always cut like butter but left a rough edge.
One pass through the jointer and all was well. Interesting thing was I
could still edge glue right off that blade and still get a near perfect
Also like to use it when sneaking up on a width for something. I know
it always cuts a tad under 1/16th of an inch, so I use that to my
advantage when needed.
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I think he is hot melting a straight edge on to the rough edged stock and
runs the straight edge along the TS fence. With this type application or a
sled like I use it takes "1" pass on the TS to straighten the most crooked
of edges. With a jointer that takes several passes. Think about taperng a
leg, you can do that on a jointer with several passes or with 1 pass using a
taper jig on the TS. The jig the TS workes much like a taper jig, it uses
a straight edge to reference the TS fence.
For an irregular, crooked edge I reckon, but thats not what I'm talking
about. S2S is generally ripped fairly straight at the mill, just the
edges are rough, not irregular. I can make several passes on my jointer
and rip the plank to size before my glue gun even warms up. Probably
faster than I can dig out my glue gun and hook it up:-)
With a jointer that takes several passes. Think about taperng a
Tapered legs are a jointer specialty, wanted or not:-)
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Just beware that the Quickset knives from Jet/Powermatic
are unique. I found that no one else makes a replacement
set and you have to order them from Jet/Powermatic.
I have the Powermatic version of this jointer and overall
it's a good one. The table is NOT superflat and I have
been trying, without a lot of push or success, to get
them to tell me what their tolerances are. But from
what my woodworker mentor tells me, it should
be just fine.
If you could find one that was in the store and buy it off the floor,
you'll be able to measure the flatness.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
I have the earlier version of that Jet jointer and it's been a
workhorse. In this class of equipment, nothing is ever perfect and
you'll find something that will bug you but in the end, it works and
you'll be happy with it. But.... If you look at Lowes (stores only)
right now, you will find that they have the $650 DeWalt model 735
Planer marked down to $499.
Buy the Craftsman jointer if it's in decent shape, tune it up and use
it with your new planer. On a budget... I can understand that so just
cut off the wife's beer for a month and you'll probably have enough to
get both. Haggle the Craftsman down another $75 if not....
Test the craftsman.. Edge-joint 2 boards about 3 feet long then hold the
edges together if you get no light... it's keeper.
Actually, ask the owner if they will do that test for you. If you have never
owned a jointer before, you may not your jointer technique together.
IMHO, jointers are really simple beasts... there's not that many parameters:
Length, width, HP, handwheels vs. Levers and the only one that *really*
matters "is it flat?"
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