Joinery suggestions

I'm building a small coffee table out of reclaimed cherry, which includes some nominal 2x6 door jambs rescued from a bank. The top will be 1x30x30 solid cherry with the 2x6 as the border. I plan on letting the top float in dados 1/4" or so below the surface of the border.
Question 1: I want to miter the corners of the 2x6. Will a simple miter glued with Titebond II be sufficient? Or do I need to create some tenons? (Note to Leon: If you'd like to come over with your Domino, I've got some Guiness in the fridge).
Question 2: I plan on using 2x2 straight legs. Mortise & tenon here? Other options?
TIA
Larry
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On 10/17/2012 8:57 AM, Gramp's shop wrote:

nominal 2x6 door jambs rescued from a bank. The top will be 1x30x30 solid cherry with the 2x6 as the border. I plan on letting the top float in dados 1/4" or so below the surface of the border.

with Titebond II be sufficient? Or do I need to create some tenons? (Note to Leon: If you'd like to come over with your Domino, I've got some Guiness in the fridge).
You will definitely want to reinforce the inherently weak miter joint used in the above scenario.
Typical solution is either biscuits to reinforce the miter joint; or splines.
The groove in the opposing miters for splines can be easily cut with a table saw blade and one judicious move of the fence.
Splines would be the strongest solution, although biscuits would do the job. Your choice.

Absolutely use some type of M&T joint ... floating or traditional. To do otherwise would take it out of the realm of a furniture project and put it firmly into the cheesy TV DIY genre. ;)
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On 10/17/2012 9:14 AM, Swingman wrote:

Here you go ... pictures worth a thousand words:
http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/mitered-woodworking-joints.html
http://tinyurl.com/braequv
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On 10/17/2012 9:14 AM, Swingman wrote:

Where is your shop? ;~)
Naturally I would go with Domino's. Followed by dowels and or biscuits.
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Racine, WI. At this writing, there is one fewer Guiness in the fridge, but plenty more where that came from.
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On 10/17/2012 9:57 AM, Gramp's shop wrote:

nominal 2x6 door jambs rescued from a bank. The top will be 1x30x30 solid cherry with the 2x6 as the border. I plan on letting the top float in dados 1/4" or so below the surface of the border.

with Titebond II be sufficient? Or do I need to create some tenons? (Note to Leon: If you'd like to come over with your Domino, I've got some Guiness in the fridge).

Should you tire of advice from knowledgeable, experienced people, you can read the following for a change-of-pace. :)
I recently bought the Beadlock basic jig:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page 088
I haven't used it for a real project yet, but I tried it out on a couple of scraps of oak 1x3, joining them to make a flat "tee". I wasn't terribly careful about it. I laid the two pieces on the bench and made a pencil mark across the approximate center of the joint. I then clamped the jig and the wood in a bench vise and drilled out the unconventional mortise in each piece. It was quick, especially the second one.
The pieces went together nice and flush, and even without glue they give the impression that they ain't-a-comin' apart. All kidding aside, I mention this because I don't know of an easier way for a novice like me to make a strong tenon-style joint, especially without expensive gear.
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On 10/17/2012 10:15 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

Another "loose tenon" form of M&T joinery, as previously suggested ... and an excellent one for those without dedicated tools, on a limited budget, and with the time to drill multiple holes for a project.
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On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 12:33:15 -0400, "Mike Marlow"

Garbage! Until you own and use a Festool Domino, you *just can't* comprehend its ease and use, the accuracy and time saving that it provides. Criticize Festool owners all you want, but your comment makes you look like a jealous wannabe. ~ Someone who can't or won't spend the money and ultimately finds himself left with the base option of criticism.
Even I find myself questioning a few of the claims about other Festool products, but the Domino I bought? It was worth every cent.
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On Thu, 18 Oct 2012 09:33:36 -0400, "Mike Marlow"

Yup. Saw your retraction some five or so messages further on, but it was too late for me to cancel my reply by that time.
And, I understand the money thing too, I'm sure that's a big concern by most every Festool naysayer. That's fine, but the most of the criticisms aren't worded just as a money thing, they're what I'd categorize as personal attacks.
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On Thu, 18 Oct 2012 10:24:08 -0400, "Mike Marlow"

You can't to go into a store and try something like a Domino out. You're afraid that you might buy one on the spot. Obviously, you've got a death grip on your wallet.
I understand completely.
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On Thu, 18 Oct 2012 14:13:32 -0400, "Mike Marlow"

Well, you certainly don't want to go test out any Festools then. You'd have a pretty tough time saying "no" to one, especially if it was right there in your hands.
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On 10/18/2012 8:28 AM, Dave wrote:

Since I don't own a Domino gonna have to spring for one myself one of these days, and join the club ... :)
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On 10/18/2012 8:57 AM, Swingman wrote:

Well!
You belong to the snooty Multi-router club. LOL
"Money being no object", do you think you would buy both sizes of Domono's?
If I were you I would get the smaller Domino like mine. I think that you would get a lot more use out of the smaller one than the larger one. You do have the multi-router for the bigger jobs. Keep in mind that I have used thousands of Domino's.
Then again, you always have access to mine if you chose to go with the bigger one.
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Makes complete sense. You would each have a different sized Domino and the ability to swap them to each other.
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Yeah, well, we all know you're a charter member of the Leon Own a New Tool club. LOAN-T for short. :)
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On 10/18/2012 11:11 AM, Dave wrote:

We are part of the FIG. Festool Investors Group.
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On Wednesday, October 17, 2012 6:57:43 AM UTC-7, Gramp's shop wrote:

Not sure how legs are attached from description. Usually legs would have an apron under the top and back from the edge. This apron would be M&T to the legs. However, if I understand you design, if the "border" hangs a few inches below the botton of the table top, you could tuck the legs into the corners underneath and scre into the legs through the boarder. This also could be used to stiffen the miter vs the other methods. If you screw form outside you can counter bore and plug the holes. But with properly calculated screw lengths or maybe corner brackets, you could screw on the underside and hide the screws completly. This is not an elegant or classic woodworking approach but should address the need if indeed there is no apron.
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Gramp's shop wrote:

No
Not tenons necessarily, any of Swingman's suggestions would work.
Since you have the space for them, you could also use angled corner blocks below the top...groove a bit of the 2x6s, glue a 3/4 thick piece with tenons on the ends into the grooves angled across two of the 2x6s at each corner. That assumes you are using the 2x6s flat since you said they wee to be borders. If they are to be upright - aprons - you can do the same thing and use the corner blocks to reinforce the legs as well.

Yes
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