Joiners

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I new to joiners, and am thinking I would like one. I have one question. From theoretical point of view should I look for a joiner with a longer bed or a wider blade. In other words would a joiner with 24 inch bed and a 7 in blade be better, than a joiner with a 36 inch bed on a 4 blade.
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unless you absolutely _need_ to join 7" wood (obviously a 6" jointer would be useless) the longer bed is perferable. You are trying to make the face as flat as possible, a short bed and you could end up making a bunch of U shaped wood. Rule of thumb: you can run wood twice the length of the bed (both infeed and outfeed). Don't get a wider jointer thinking you can save on the planer, you'll need both to surface all sides.
On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 02:41:37 +0000, keith nuttle wrote:

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So if the total bed length is 60", I can make a perfect flat piece of a 120" length?
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You, two extra pairs of experienced hands, a couple or three outfeed tables/rollers, and sufficient luck to go to Vegas to make the rent.
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What the hell are you talking about?
Are you saying it's not possible?
If the majority of my boards are < 6', how long of a jointer bed do I need?
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I am not sure what he is talking about either, but will try to answer your question. Most beginners look at a jointer as a tool that is easy to use and that doesn't require much skill. It isn't like hand cutting dovetails, but does require following a process to get great results. I think that is what Swingman is hinting at.
To help decide what size jointer you need look to your current project and try to guess what you will be doing in the future. If you don't think that you will face boards wider that 6", then get a 6" jointer. If you need wider then look at an 8", 12". Most hobbyists find that a 6" jointer is the best value for them. Once you decide on a width look at the other features of the different brands. Length of the table will be one feature but I think that you will find that most bed lengths are in the same range. You should be able to join 6' boards with any "name brand" 6" jointer. If you are worried, then put bed length at the top of your feature list.
I started with a 6" jet. Less than two years later I moved to an 8" Delta and now am investigating a 12".
Bob McBreen - Yarrow Point, WA
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Larry Bud responds:

If the majority of your boards are 6' long and about 6" wide or less, get a 6" jointer of almost any brand. That's what he's talking about. But don't expect to be able to take the 44-48" bed combination on those jointers and easily joint 8' long boards. Even worse, your example of 10' long boards ona 60" bed. That's a tiy SOB when it starts and when it gets near the end of the pass.
In other words, it's possible, with help, extra equipment and a lot of luck.
Charlie Self If God had wanted me to touch my toes he would have put them higher on my body.
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
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"Larry Bud"wrote in message

Just what it says ... experience, the proper equipment, and with little or no experience, a hell of a lot of luck.
Not to be snide, but if you have to ask the question, chances of you going out and buying a jointer and coming home and edge jointing and facing 10' stock right away is pretty unlikely.

Sure it's possible ... but it takes more than just the jointer to "make a perfect flat piece of a 120" length". The next question is "Do you really need to joint 6' to10' stock?"

A 6" jointer will probably be sufficient for your needs. How many of your projects use 6' boards?
Jointing a warp, cup, or bow out of long stock takes a good deal of practice and understanding of wood and each is attacked differently. It often makes more sense to cut your material to rough dimensions required for the project BEFORE you joint, rather than trying to joint 6' or 10' stock.
Changing the length and/or width of the stock can take out a good deal of warp, cup, or bow before you even fire up the jointer. It then becomes easier, requires less equipment, and, as you gain experience with the tool, you will get better results with a whole lot less luck.
HTH ..
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check the prices on wide jointers. generally you get the best bang for the buck with a 6" wide jointer. I've got the Powermatic long bed -- 66" long. I'd not be happy with anything shorter, but perhaps your needs are different. I'd like one wider, once in a blue moon, but the long bed is reasonably priced ($750) and the wider ones are substantially more costly.
dave
keith nuttle wrote:

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Yes - over the weekend I assembled my Powermatic. I'd been saving for this specific jointer for years.
Holy smokes!
I've tried all the other methods for preparing wood - Router table, tuned saw and Forrest blade, "Jointability," etc.... But, holy smokes, this jointer is a great piece of gear. Nearly every piece of hardwood now gets a few passes! Results better that I ever hoped for.
Can't wait till I really learn how to use it -
Regards, jbd
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I have my hand on a brand new DJ-_30_, 12 incher today. If only I had the money and space! <G>
Barry
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"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." wrote in message

Ah man, don't even talk about it! If I had the space, I could find the money ... or is it the other way around? ;>) Either way, the PowerMatic seems to be earning its keep.
I could have used David J Marks' aircraft carrier today. I had a 12" wide table top that was just thick and heavy enough to keep getting a trace of snipe in the planer, no matter what I did. I was sure eyeballing the Powermatic trying see if it could somehow stretch another 6" out of it without spending half the day making a jig..
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Dave,
I had the same decision. For about 100 bucks more (including S&H), you can get the Grizz 75" long 8" wide behemoth. Very nice. No compromise.
Montyhp

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nice specs. Is the table and fence respectably flat and the tables coplanar? How many HP does it have?
dave
Montyhp wrote:

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Dave,
As far as I can tell, tables are coplanar and fence is flat (I don't own an expensive straight edge, just a cheap Borg aluminum version). The real proof is that I get flat wood (very nice joints and flat faces). It has two HP and 4 blades. (I guess 4 blades may be a disadvantage when I go to change them;-)
Montyhp

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Longer is better.
Bill

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I do now. I wonder if this is really an 8" that has been "value engineered"? Ed
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Edwin Pawlowski responds:

Doesn't look like it. It looks more like a light duty 6" that has had the head and tables slightly widened. Same HP, etc. I'd wonder about durability, especially at that price point.
Charlie Self If God had wanted me to touch my toes he would have put them higher on my body.
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
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