jet or grizzly cabinet saw????

I am getting ready to make the move to a cabinet saw but I don't want to have to upgrade electrical right now so I 'm looking at only saws that are capable if 110v. I have found a jet 10" 1-3/4 HP Tilting Arbor Cabinet Table saw model # JWCS-10A-PF as well as the grizzly 1023S110. Price is pretty much the same, the Jet can be bought locally for $849.00 (in stock) and the Grizzly is $825.00 + $55.00 shipping. Which saw have the advantage over the other and why???
Thanks Don
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mgbgt wrote:

The Jet is not a true cabinet saw. The trunnion is similar to that of a contractor's saw.
-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA
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Table
the
the
Don't do it. What you will have is an expensive saw that is too weak to be much good. Get the 220 in there and get a proper saw.
If you can't do the electrical, get a contractor saw for the time being.
Come on gang, tell him!
--
Jim in NC



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The 220v version of the Grizzly is a great saw. The thing I don't get about the 110v version is that most people don't have a dedicated circuit that can handle it. You may have to run a special circuit. May as well run a 220v circuit and get the more powerful saw for the same price.
montyhp

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the
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Don,
If I were you, I would wait until I could run the 220 feed and then not be limited to cabinet saws that can run at 110.
my $0.10 Frank
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I don't think I am limiting myself at this point, both saws area capable of either 110 or 220 but maybe I'm missing something in all of this, aren't the saws them selves the same except for the motor that is bolted to them ? If this is the case, why is it a disadvantage to get one that will use either voltage? I realize that most if not all of the 220v saws advertised have 3 or more HP but under normal usage or better stated only occasionally cutting 8/4 or thicker hardwoods will the 2hp grizzly saw not be the same saw that is delivered with the 3hp 220 volt motor or are there other differences in the table saws beside the motor. I'm saying I'm not looking into the 220 upgrade but if I do that the saw is going to get put off for awhile longer and my thought is if I get the saw now that is able to be switched from 110 to 220 then when I get wiring updated all I will have to do is rewire the existing saw.

are
pretty
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mgbgt wrote:

<snip>
The Grizzly may be, but the Jet is just a "contractor saw in a box".
<snip>

And when you get the 220V line run you'll still have a 2 HP saw. You'll be kicking yourself saying "I should have waited and gotten the larger motor."
If you don't have a tablesaw now, check the swap sheet, "for sale" ads, etc. and pick up a used contractor saw for use until you get the 220V line in. You could sell the contractor saw when you're ready to upgrade, and most likely recoup the money spent for the saw.
-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA
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of
What is the wiring you have now? If it is a dedicated 20A circuit, you are probably OK with the dual voltage and do the change over later.
If, however, you plan to plug the saw into the same circuit as your lights, don't even think about it. I have a 1 1/2 HP Delta. When I bought it, I planned to upgrade the wiring in the garage. Of course I had the saw put together and wanted to try it out as it would be another couple of days to finish the electrical. I flipped the switch and the three fluorescent fixtures in the shop actually went out for a few seconds and the motor slowly came up to speed. Then the lights came back on. Down right scary!
So, if you have to upgrade the electrical anyway, why not look into the 3 HP saw if it is in your budget. Unless you have the 20A circuit, yes, you are limiting yourself. You will have a saw that is unusable. Ed
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of
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occasionally
The kicker is the HP. When you change that 110 saw to 220, you will not get any more HP.
You will wish for more HP, even with light cutting, and even more for the tough stuff.
I finally got an honest 5 HP 12" saw, and I can not believe the difference going from 3HP to 5 HP. Now go the other way. Ouch.
--
Jim in NC



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of
<snip>
Are you sure? Seems to me the Griz will only go 110. My 2 Nahmie
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Most of the motors that Griz sells are either 110 or 220, depends on how you wire the motor.

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you
Not trying to start any major war here, I just went & checked catalog, and it *appears* that this particular model is only 110. At least in this case they don't say anything about it being "convertible". Nahmie
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"Norman D. Crow" wrote:

Correct. The spec's on the web list the G1023S110 as 110 volts only. See:
http://www.grizzly.com/graphics/products/pdfs/G1023S110.pdf?
-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
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I suspect there may be some typos in there -- or else its a motor that I don't want. Notice that the amps is listed as 24 amps. How many people have a 25 or 30 amp 110 volt circuit in their shop/home? That's taking 110v to the extreme, in my opinion.
Bob

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See:
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110v
[snip]
Right! You would need a special circuit. Why not make that circuit 220v (It is a very simple thing to do) and get a 3 hp saw for the same price!
montyhp
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