JET bandsaw motor

I've got a buddy with a JET JWBS-18X saw and the motor gets hotter than hell. Does anyone have any suggestions?
He's thinking about replacing the 1 1/2 hp with a 3 hp but Jet wants from 475 for the 1 1/2 hp to 575 for the 3 hp. thats pretty steep for whar seems to be a marginal motor. Does anyone have any suggestions for replacements?
I have found several motors for him but need to know what the frame is on those motors. They are a strange mounting config (face but doesn't seem to be a NEMA) and the shaft size is 3/4" which is a bit odd for a motor that size.
We need some help! He's 74 and doesn't use a PC and we live in the boonies. Nearest place to shop for motors is Boise and thats 180 miles so we're reaching out. He makes stakes for local builders and needs his machine fixed. It would be a real stretch for hime to shell out what Jet wants for their "solid GOLD" motors
Thanks Byrd
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The hard part seems to be that one of you have a computer to shop. Obviously you have.
A few years ago I remember many on the woodturning group (the ng & WC) using these guys for motors and VF drives to replace lathe motors. Never heard anything but good about them:
http://www.dealerselectric.com /
Also, check out for some really nice motors (and mostly pricey!):
http://www.electricmotorsale.com /
There's old faithful, but not necessarily the cheapest either:
http://tinyurl.com/6b2cv8
If you want a nice motor, you can also get a rebuilt motor. If you start out with a good motor (NOT NOT Chiawanese stuff) you can rebuild many motors several times if the windings stay intact. In fact some are made to be "serviced".
When I was doing a lot of commercial work I was on a building downtown and some guys were pulling the biggest electric motor I had ever seen (it was a motor for a huge chiller unit) with a small lift. They were replacing it with another that looked just like it that came from the building storage room.
It had a brass plate wired on it showing the dates of rebuild. The first entry stamped on the plate - 1931 !!
If you can get a Leeson, Baldor, WEG, or some of the other brands that are out there that have been rebuilt by a qualified shop, you should be in business for about 1/2 price the cost of new.
When they break, most of the smaller motors that come from China are made to be sold for scrap. Don't take a rebuilt Chinese motor unless you know what you are doing.
As always, just my 0.02.
Robert
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wrote:

The motor on my Jet 16" BS is an IEC (AKA Metric) frame rather than NEMA. I expect you'll find the same is true on the 18". Unless you measured the shaft diameter with calipers and are sure about the 3/4 inch dimension, I'll bet that its actually 19mm (.748 inches) which would make it an IEC Frame 80 with either a B5 flange mount (165mm Bolt Circle) or a B14 face mount (100mm B.C.)
For a chart of IEC frame dimensions, see:
http://www.americanelectricmotors.com/avactis-images/u/IEC%20Frame%20chart.pdf
Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA
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How hot is "hotter than hell"? The ratings on most intermittent duty motors are based on a 60F (or is it 60C) increase in temperature from ambient. You would definitely be able to tell when the motor reached that temperature. And, if the motor exceeds this temperature, he needs a bigger one.
Jim
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If the motor isn't getting enough voltage it will run hot. Measure the volts at plug when the motor is under load. If it's low then start looking for why. One usual culprit is an extension cord which is too long or too small a guage. The remedy in this case is obvious. If the motor is wired for 120V, rewiring it for 240V can make a big difference too. Art
"byrds51" wrote ...

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Thanks for the replies guys. "hotter than hell" is so hot you can't put your hand on the motor without pulling back immediately. It came wired 115 but he had it wired to 230. The cord on the saw is the original which I found to be a little puny (14ga) but the feed is 10ga. The motor does not have any frame designation on the plate or anywhere we could find. Another anomaly was when we pulled the capacitor cap and it was full of black goo. It almost looks like there was some caps or something in there that melted down, but the capacitor might be faulty because the motor spins up too slowly in my experience. (lots of various pumps and equipment, but no woodworking tools, and I guess I've been lucky because I haven't ever had an electric motor go out except submersibles)
We're going to pull the motor. I think, and have an electrician check it out.
Thanks Again, Bob.
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wrote:

Thanks for the replies guys. "hotter than hell" is so hot you can't put your hand on the motor without pulling back immediately. It came wired 115 but he had it wired to 230. The cord on the saw is the original which I found to be a little puny (14ga) but the feed is 10ga. The motor does not have any frame designation on the plate or anywhere we could find. Another anomaly was when we pulled the capacitor cap and it was full of black goo. It almost looks like there was some caps or something in there that melted down, but the capacitor might be faulty because the motor spins up too slowly in my experience. (lots of various pumps and equipment, but no woodworking tools, and I guess I've been lucky because I haven't ever had an electric motor go out except submersibles)
We're going to pull the motor. I think, and have an electrician check it out.
Keep in mind that if the motor is a TEFC desigh they will run hotter, all the heat has to reach the outside of the motor before the fan can cool it. After running my Jet lathe for a couple of hours it's TEFC motor also gets too hot to touch for more than a second or two.
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