Japanese Shoji Paper - PVC laminated?

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Well, if it is laminated and comes in sheet form, you might want to consider a plastic cutting blade which if I remember correctly would have a negative hook angle.
Perhaps a solid surface/laminate blade for Leon's TS55 or TS75 might do the trick. http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/blades/solid-surface-laminate-48tooth-saw-blade-496309.html
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Cool. Not cheap, is it? I've been eyeing some of the new and improved shoji papers for some upcoming CNC project ideas.

How about utility scissors, or the utility knife w/ a new blade? I guess it depends on how thick, brittle, and tough it is.
If too thick, why didn't you immediately think of your Festool saur? I need to do a slight cutdown on an opaque acrylic insert panel for a sunlight in a 30 y/o mobile if I get the carpeting job for its stairs and porch, and I immediately thought of the Makita plunge saur.
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I'm thinking that $33/door is reasonable. Don't think I can get a boutique glass for that price?

There's always that. I was hoping it might cut like polycarbonate, which Is quicker to do on the table saw.
Basically I don't have a clue, and neither did the salesperson I talked to the other day. Someone in the know was supposed to return my call yesterday, but no joy there yet.
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I'm thinking "paper", so $71 for a 3x6' piece seems steep to me.

Prolly not.

Judging by the application, I'd think it was fairly thin. "Extra Strength", to a marketer, might mean an extra 0.002" of resin on each side of a 0.003" paper.

Does it ship in a sheet or rolled? That might be a clue in itself.
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Maybe this will help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v
üzKhfaZehk
Mike M
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Interesting .... Thanks!
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Realized after posting you ordered a laminated version but hopefully you can find more info there.
Mike M
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On 7/7/2012 6:41 PM, Mike M wrote:

LOL ... one of the few who did. I appreciate your post. Until I saw the video I didn't have a clue how any of this Japanese paper was mounted.
Although this might not fall in the same category as in the video, I won't know until I actually lay hands on it, so any information adds to my options.
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On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 14:17:50 -0700, Mike M

Dayum, when did YouTube start stuffing ads into all their videos? Where the fark is the "Allow and block ads" tab where I'm supposed to be able to turn some ads off? Damn you, Google!
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Swingman wrote:

I once made a tatami screen with rice paper (non-laminated). Just cut with scissors or sharp knife and glued to frame. The cutter needs to be sharp and the edge of paper clamped under something as the paper tends to tear.
Never seen what you have but I think sawing might be too aggressive. How thick/rigid is it? Tried a knife & straight edge? As far as mounting goes I'd think putting it in a rabbet and backing up the rabbet with a thin molding would work if it is reasonably rigid; if not, same thing but staple in.
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dadiOH wrote:

Shoji, not tatami.
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On 7/8/2012 7:38 AM, dadiOH wrote:

Exactly what I was hoping someone who may have had some experience with the laminated product could provide. :)

Don't have it yet. Asked the same question of the salesperson at their 800 number last week; also how to cut, and suggested method of fastening (silicon, glue, acrylyic adhesive tape, etc), all the usual mounting methods ... they did not have a clue but "will have someone call me back".
As far as mounting goes

The doors are already made, with a 1/4" rabbet to mount either glass or some other sheet material (which this supposedly is), complete with muntin grille's:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopSBJ_Desk201102#5758740773600367218
So, even if I have to cut a non laminated paper, as you mentioned in your previous post, technique, or lack thereof, will be the deciding factor ... just trying to get a jump on the process, so queried here also.
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Swingman wrote:

https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopSBJ_Desk201102#5758740773600367218
Even unlaminated rice paper should be good to go with that without any sort of backing (other than the grill) if glued to both. In your case, I'm thinking spray adhesive on the rabbet, ditto on grill.
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frame into a rabbet and then cover the staples with a molding.
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On 7/7/2012 1:27 PM, Swingman wrote:

For those taking notes:
Got call today from Samurai Shoji San installer:
1. Cut sheet material 1/16" undersize of opening, with fresh sharp utility knife and using t-Square.
2. Mount to rabbets and muntin grille with any quality, double sided tape, as needed.
He said you could use silicon (extremely messy), or Warlon Sheet Bond (available only in Japanese stores), but the double sided tape would work as well, and have the plus of the owner being able to remove/change in the future.
We'll soon see if it is as easy as it sounds ...
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Looks similar to the U-tube video, but the double tape was great input, gives you better chance to recover if needed. Using the real sharp razor knife give you the oportunity to just take your time. Looking forward to seeing the finished project. I like the idea.
Mike M
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On 7/11/2012 7:22 PM, Mike M wrote:

Yeah ... and it was watching your video link that made the dialog with the dude much more productive.
Thanks again!
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On 7/11/2012 8:30 PM, Swingman wrote:

The Laminated Shoji paper arrived yesterday evening via FedEx, rolled up in a tube.
Mounted it this morning (with assistance from a friend of ours who has a picture framing shop in the neighborhood), and using double sided tape as above. Good thing to, because it takes at least four hands of the "never did this before variety":
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods#5765078805641652994
Two photos in a row.
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Looks really good. I'm assuming using the laminated sheet makes it easier to install with out any possible wrinkles showing? If you were doing it solo could you do it like you were doing contact glue and support it above the tape as you had it so the double tape was beneath the surface? I really like how the light background makes the frame pop out.
Mike M
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On 7/14/2012 1:24 PM, Mike M wrote:

You could pretty much use the same technique used for laminating any substrate, except with this stuff it is better, at least for the inexperienced, to start at one end and work your way to the other ... one person holding one end up high, with an arc toward the end where the application is starting; and the other person guiding and pressing the material to tape, working toward the high held end ... with only +1/32" clearance side to side, and top to bottom, the start is critical.
Actually much easier than it sounds, but I would still want four hands on the job because, even laminated, you would probably ruin the stuff if you had to start over.
Both sheets were cut to 16 9/16 x 24 3/16, so at roughly $10 linear foot, including shipping, it cost a tad over $16/door. The 3' x 6' roll was $66.70 with shipping.
That's very reasonable, IMO ... and I have plenty for two more doors of the same size left.
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