If you read my first reply, you'd already know that the infeed pawls are
useless at best. They would probably get in the way also and would not
allow you to pull the wood back once you reached a certain point and that
would make them unsafe. Why don't you just want to believe your idea is not
a good one?
"They would probably get in the way". Not at all with my push stick.
"and would not allow you to pull the wood back once you reached a
certain point and that
would make them unsafe. " I don't get that. Are you saying that
pulling stock back towards the infeed is safe?
How do you pull stock back that has gone beyond the outfeed pawls.
However, one can easily retract the infeed pawls should you wish to
pull the stock back.
Cars have seat belts and airbags. Dual pawls should make kickback
less likely and as an extra bonus they could be designed to be used as
infeed hold downs.
And you've asked and now you don't like the answer...go ahead and do
whatever it is you want to do with as many or as few kick-back pawls as you
want. The rest of us will stick with the usual set AFTER the cut, where it
will do the best job.
And by the way, just why DID you ask this twice in less than 24 hours?
It is perfectly safe if it has not reached the blade. If grabbed by a pawl,
you are stuck.
You don't (at least not easily). At that point you are commited and the cut
has been started, maybe finished, and the splitter kept it from grabbing on
the blade and kicking back. They worked as designed.
As stated, dual pawls won't do crap. Put them on if you want, but if it was
the safety device of the century, they would be available already and in
use. They are useless for what you want. Pawls won't make kickback less
likely. Evidently you don't understand the process. Learn what makes it
happen, then decide. People here are trying to educate you but you are
still insisting your idea is a good one, even if useless, but that is your
FWIW, seatbelts and air bags have different functions and work together in
many cases. Pawls in front of the blade have about the same effects on
safety as putting a Venetian blind on the windshield.
Sure, your contraption is not what I would call safe. A splitter on the
back of the blade and on the front blade is no more safe than a stick of
dynamite with a fuse on both ends rather than only on one end. The problem
is not so much the splitter/fuses as what they are attached to.
The problem with you is that you refuse to get any drift. I'm trying to
decide if you're a troll or not.
If you are, you're semi-busted. If you're not, think of why I even
considered that you might be.
You're coming into a forum that has a wide range of experience, but many
of the answers you're getting are from the guys that have been around a
long long time and either intuitively know when something is wrong, or
have been down the road and learned a lesson. You don't seem to be able
to benefit from their accumulated experiences. Almost all of the answers
you've been getting on your various questions have said that they
wouldn't do what you're suggesting.
As always, there are a variety of ways of interpreting answers like
that. One is the "we don't do that cause we've always done it this way"
POV. The implication is that whoever says that has his head up his ass
and would never consider something that isn't tried and true. For some
people in here, that may be true. For most, they are open-minded enough
to realize that there are many ways to do a job, as long as it's safe.
Another way of interpreting the answers is that these guys simply don't
know what the fuck they're talking about. If that's true, why even
bother asking them?
Yet a third way of looking at the answers you're getting is that they're
just pulling your pecker and of course you've come up with something
that is patentable and will make you a fortune.
Or, maybe they're just right.
I"m still thinking troll.
Set up your table saw CORRECTLY and it will never kick back, even with
no splitter, no pawls, and NO SAFETY GUARDS.
Look up thesawshop.com
Dave Wooland is THE table saw expert and a real nice guy.
He can tell you how to set up ANY table saw (unless it is REAL CRAP)
so it will cut perfectly and predictably every time - with NO
Yeah, I've seen Dave at the shows. He does a great demo, and sells a
decent after market fence.
How much is he paying you?
I invite Dave, the next time he's in Saskatoon (which should be this
summer) to accept a piece of wood of my choice to rip on his perfectly
tuned saw without splitter, pawls or guards, and have the insurers of
the venue allow him to rip it.
Ain't gonna happen.
Dave's a helluva showman, and a great pitchman for his fence, but let's
be real here.
My name's real, Dave can look me up in the Saskatoon phone book,
provide me with proof of insurance, and I'll be happy to bring a board
for him to rip without splitter, pawls or guards.
Help improve usenet. Kill-file Google Groups.
On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 21:14:34 -0600, Dave Balderstone
I've seen and used saws that were poorly set up. I've used saws that
were properly set up. I've used the same saw both ways. NO COMPARISON.
A poorly set up saw is dangerous no matter how you use it.
A properly set up saw is dangerous if you are stupid in the way you
use it, but infinitely less dangerous then the properly set up saw.
And I'm sure Dave will take you up on your offer if you contact him
(easy enough to do)
He seems to enjoy a challenge!!
My, my ... you have effectively elevated the practice of destroying
credibility in 25 words or less to heights rarely seen hereabouts.
But we do heartedly thank you for the advance warning that anything further
you have to say can be _safely_ ignored ... no pun intended.
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 12:00:10 -0600, Dave Balderstone
I think you guys, not just to pick on Dave, but I had to reply to
someone... are a tad harsh. Let's not pile on to a regular poster.
Before I go on, I think the one error is the lack of a splitter. I
agree that with most solid wood stock a splitter is a necessary part.
Personally, I use splitters during all solid wood rips.
However, if a woodworker mainly works with plywood, MDF, composites,
or selected, straight grained, kiln dried S4S stock, I think a
properly set up saw will not kick back, even without the splitter.
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
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