Is this an a-pawling idea?

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Use another set of pawls on the infeed side to prevent kickback.
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I think the only safe answer from anyone here is to suggest you get a conventional saw and not use your setup. We tend to try to suggest safe practices.
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OK Conventional saw are perfectly safe and operators never experience kickback.
No need for improvement.
I got your drift.
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No, you apparently do not get my drift. Conventional is "not" perfectly safe and your contraption is much less safe.
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A reason as to why you believe that an infeed pawl is less safe would be reasonable.
Perhaps you can elaborate?
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If you read my first reply, you'd already know that the infeed pawls are useless at best. They would probably get in the way also and would not allow you to pull the wood back once you reached a certain point and that would make them unsafe. Why don't you just want to believe your idea is not a good one?
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"They would probably get in the way". Not at all with my push stick.
"and would not allow you to pull the wood back once you reached a certain point and that would make them unsafe. " I don't get that. Are you saying that pulling stock back towards the infeed is safe?
How do you pull stock back that has gone beyond the outfeed pawls.
However, one can easily retract the infeed pawls should you wish to pull the stock back.
Cars have seat belts and airbags. Dual pawls should make kickback less likely and as an extra bonus they could be designed to be used as infeed hold downs.
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And you've asked and now you don't like the answer...go ahead and do whatever it is you want to do with as many or as few kick-back pawls as you want. The rest of us will stick with the usual set AFTER the cut, where it will do the best job.
And by the way, just why DID you ask this twice in less than 24 hours?
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I don't get that. Are you saying that

It is perfectly safe if it has not reached the blade. If grabbed by a pawl, you are stuck.

You don't (at least not easily). At that point you are commited and the cut has been started, maybe finished, and the splitter kept it from grabbing on the blade and kicking back. They worked as designed.

As stated, dual pawls won't do crap. Put them on if you want, but if it was the safety device of the century, they would be available already and in use. They are useless for what you want. Pawls won't make kickback less likely. Evidently you don't understand the process. Learn what makes it happen, then decide. People here are trying to educate you but you are still insisting your idea is a good one, even if useless, but that is your right.
FWIW, seatbelts and air bags have different functions and work together in many cases. Pawls in front of the blade have about the same effects on safety as putting a Venetian blind on the windshield.
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<<<major snippage>>>

I REALLY like that one!
Mind if I borrow that line???
Mike
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"Pawls won't make kickback less likely."
Where they put there instead of Venetian blinds?
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wrote:

Seems you have put blinders on incorrectly also.
Mark
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Sure, your contraption is not what I would call safe. A splitter on the back of the blade and on the front blade is no more safe than a stick of dynamite with a fuse on both ends rather than only on one end. The problem is not so much the splitter/fuses as what they are attached to.
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BoyntonStu wrote:

The problem with you is that you refuse to get any drift. I'm trying to decide if you're a troll or not.
If you are, you're semi-busted. If you're not, think of why I even considered that you might be.
You're coming into a forum that has a wide range of experience, but many of the answers you're getting are from the guys that have been around a long long time and either intuitively know when something is wrong, or have been down the road and learned a lesson. You don't seem to be able to benefit from their accumulated experiences. Almost all of the answers you've been getting on your various questions have said that they wouldn't do what you're suggesting.
As always, there are a variety of ways of interpreting answers like that. One is the "we don't do that cause we've always done it this way" POV. The implication is that whoever says that has his head up his ass and would never consider something that isn't tried and true. For some people in here, that may be true. For most, they are open-minded enough to realize that there are many ways to do a job, as long as it's safe.
Another way of interpreting the answers is that these guys simply don't know what the fuck they're talking about. If that's true, why even bother asking them?
Yet a third way of looking at the answers you're getting is that they're just pulling your pecker and of course you've come up with something that is patentable and will make you a fortune.
Or, maybe they're just right.
I"m still thinking troll.
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wrote:

Set up your table saw CORRECTLY and it will never kick back, even with no splitter, no pawls, and NO SAFETY GUARDS.
Look up thesawshop.com Dave Wooland is THE table saw expert and a real nice guy. He can tell you how to set up ANY table saw (unless it is REAL CRAP) so it will cut perfectly and predictably every time - with NO KICKBACKS.
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snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:

Yeah, I've seen Dave at the shows. He does a great demo, and sells a decent after market fence.
How much is he paying you?
I invite Dave, the next time he's in Saskatoon (which should be this summer) to accept a piece of wood of my choice to rip on his perfectly tuned saw without splitter, pawls or guards, and have the insurers of the venue allow him to rip it.
Ain't gonna happen.
Dave's a helluva showman, and a great pitchman for his fence, but let's be real here.
My name's real, Dave can look me up in the Saskatoon phone book, provide me with proof of insurance, and I'll be happy to bring a board for him to rip without splitter, pawls or guards.
djb
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On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 21:14:34 -0600, Dave Balderstone

I've seen and used saws that were poorly set up. I've used saws that were properly set up. I've used the same saw both ways. NO COMPARISON. A poorly set up saw is dangerous no matter how you use it. A properly set up saw is dangerous if you are stupid in the way you use it, but infinitely less dangerous then the properly set up saw.
And I'm sure Dave will take you up on your offer if you contact him (easy enough to do)
He seems to enjoy a challenge!!
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<clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada> wrote

My, my ... you have effectively elevated the practice of destroying credibility in 25 words or less to heights rarely seen hereabouts.
But we do heartedly thank you for the advance warning that anything further you have to say can be _safely_ ignored ... no pun intended.
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snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:

And you claim that a correctly set-up saw will totally eliminate kickback.
You're a fool, sir. And a dangerous fool, at that.
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On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 12:00:10 -0600, Dave Balderstone

I think you guys, not just to pick on Dave, but I had to reply to someone... are a tad harsh. Let's not pile on to a regular poster.
Before I go on, I think the one error is the lack of a splitter. I agree that with most solid wood stock a splitter is a necessary part. Personally, I use splitters during all solid wood rips.
However, if a woodworker mainly works with plywood, MDF, composites, or selected, straight grained, kiln dried S4S stock, I think a properly set up saw will not kick back, even without the splitter.
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