Is there a hinge like this?

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(Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)
A little bit of amateur bathroom remodeling/cabinetry going on here. And a little bit of finding myself backed into a (hardware) corner by not researching hinges before starting the project.
I've built a new medicine cabinet flush into the plaster wall above the sink. The cabinet sides are made of 3/4'' MDF and I plan to hang a cabinet door over the front of the cabinet, same width as the outside dim of the cabinet.
I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into the edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that this is going to be very secure.
I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that 2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD and Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my admittedly crude drawing at
http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif
--

Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
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"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"

Would something like this work?
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id 59
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_group.cfm?&objectgroup_id45&catid !
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try this link: http://www.richelieu.com/produits/popupProduit.php?id 889 might be good for what you need Chris Melanson BLH Millwork LTD. "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"

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On 12/11/2004 4:26 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took fingers to keys, and typed the following:

I don't know why you can't screw the loose pin hinges into the end of the MDF. Just use longer screws to catch more material. But here's a look at some like your drawing: http://www.thehardwarehut.com/cabinet_hinge_types.php
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On 12/11/2004 2:00 PM willshak wrote:

<snip>
Great page to help the newbie w/ hinges! Those hinges -- like the overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room, and I want this door to have as close to hidden hinges as possible. That's why something like a regular utility hinge with folded-back wing on the frame side seems so attractive, because the knuckle will lay against the wall.
But onto your suggestion about just mounting into the edge of the MDF. The cabinet door won't be super-heavy, just a 17'' wide by 28'' tall poplar frame w/ 1/8'' mirror glass in it. But given that most of my woodworking projects show the hand -- and foot -- of my craftsmanship, I would not be surprised to have the MDF split when installing the screws, even with careful pre-drilling. Or see one of the hinges come loose a few years down the road. Screwing through the side of the frame rather than into the edge just seems more secure. Or maybe I'm just ascribing to MDF the weakness of particle board?
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On 12/11/2004 5:32 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took fingers to keys, and typed the following:

If you are going to use the 1/2" hinge screws into the MDF ends, then yes, they may pull out. But, you are going into the MDF at its greatest depth. You can use 1-1/2" or longer screws and probably be able to hang yourself from the doors, or at least bend the hinges trying. :-).
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On 12/11/2004 2:56 PM willshak wrote:

<snip>
Sounds like a plan!
<Sound of me hanging myself from the doors>: Hungghhh!
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snipped-for-privacy@REMOVETHEOBVIOUSadelphiaDOT.net says...

How about those "barrel" hinges where you drill a hole in each piece, insert the hinges, and tighten a screw to expand the inge tightly against the material. Completely hidden and, IIRC, 180 degree opening.
The more expensive route might be Soss hinges.
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On 12/11/2004 4:27 PM Larry Blanchard wrote:

Interesting hinge. I took a look at the pdf over at rockler.com
http://www.rockler.com/tech/28555.pdf
They have "some possible applications" sketches on bottom of the first page. Mine looks like the leftmost sketch.
So lemme get this straight -- with something like a metric Forstner bit, you drill a hole into the edge of the cabinet side and the rear of the door. Shove these puppys in and tighten the screw to expand the body. Pretty clever!
I don't want to split the MDF on the edge of the cabinet. When the screw is tightened, how does the barrel expand? Looking at the upper right sketch on the Rockler pdf ("Tightening Screw"): does the barrel expand vertically (on that picture) or horizontally. Or just get fatter all 'round? I wonder if the barrel presses against the thin side of the barrel hole, or against the thick side.

Yep -- those are mighty pretty hinges.
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Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

Yeah except that the holes have to be drilled *precisely*. And even with 10mm there isn't much leeway on the sides going into 3/4" stock from the edge.
They are useful hinges but I wouldn't use them in particle board...I suspect they would work loose in short order.
-- dadiOH ____________________________
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"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"

First off MDF is not particle board. Particle board is woodchips and glue, MDF is saw dust and epoxy.
Use a piano hinge, secure it to the door with wood screws, and you can drill and tap the MDF to take machine screws.
Wth this setup I bet the door would brake long before the screws pulled out of the MDF.
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Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

There's a reason for that. Hinging the way you want to do will limit the door swing to 90 degrees. It is not a good method...if someone inadvertantly opens the door too hard something is going to give.
The hinge knuckle should be in the same plane as the front of the door...that will allow 180 degree opening and no racking. One way to accomplish that is by using knife/pivot hinges inset into door top/bottom...only the small pivot would show.
http://www.hardwaresource.com/Store_ViewCatLevel3.asp?Cat $&OrderID -- dadiOH ____________________________
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On 12/12/2004 6:23 AM dadiOH wrote:

In my case, if the cabinet door opens much more than 90 degrees it will smack into a wall sconce. I'll put some kind of chain or string to stop the door before anything gets hammered.
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Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

That will look peachy :)
-- dadiOH ____________________________
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On 12/12/2004 11:23 AM dadiOH wrote:

Heh. Yeah, I'm thinking a big old chunk of chain with a piece of old green garden hose slipped over it.
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Mike, I believe a face frame overlay hinge will do the trick. Just install the side that would normally attach to the door to your cabinet. Such as - the larger part of hinge usually attaches to the door & smaller part to cabinet, just reverse this and connect the small side to your door.
Here is a link http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id $4&objectg roup_idf&catid!&filter=hinges
There is a PDF file that describes the hinge on the site.
Normal disclaimer - not associated with Rockler in any way.
Hope this helps. Big John
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On 12/11/2004 2:22 PM WilliaJ2 wrote:

I picked one of those up at the hardware store this morning and turned it every which-way. At first it seemed like it would do the job. But as I recall, when you fold the "door" wing back to mount to the inside of the cabinet, the "frame" wing, which I would mount the door to, projects more than 3/8'' into the room, spacing the cabinet door away from the wall. This is because the knuckle of the hinge, rather than being off to the side of the door as my sketch has it, ends up between the frame and the door.
Memo to self: find the hinge you are going to work with BEFORE building the cabinet!
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Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

If it is not too late in the project you may try adding reinforcement to the MDF. Drill a hole into the MDF and insert a hardwood dowel. Then screw the hinges into the dowel. Just my $0.02
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On 12/11/2004 6:15 PM John wrote:

Worth more than $0.02, I reckon. Good advice is priceless - especially when it is offered for free. Thank you.
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"dust Proof Kitchen Cabinet Hinges" are similar to your drawing, However Screwing into the edge of MDF does not present a problem and give a good fixing if you drill a pilot hole first. Use a narrow gauge screw and make the pilot hole at least as deep as the screw. Use a screw that is 1 - 1 3/4" in length. John Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

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