Is It Me Or My Dado Blade?

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Wish my dad had had that advice. He was consistant - always bought the least expensive tool. I threw them all out after he passed on (actually, saved a set of screwdrivers and a hammer, just in case my Mom ever needs to hang a picture or tighten a loose knob).
John
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On 1/28/2015 2:53 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

A tool that gives you repeated good results and calls for you to use it time and again is a great tool and you will seldom remember the sting of the price.
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On 1/29/2015 2:33 PM, Leon wrote:

Going a bit further with that...
Almost two years ago I bought an industrial SawStop and can probably only tell you withing $1000 how much I paid for it. This pretty much holds true with all of my Festool tools.
Way over 15 years ago I bought a PC Detail Sander. WHAT A POS. Off the top of my head I think I paid $129 for it. Looking that up for certain, I paid $128.22 on 9/20/1996.
If you focus too much on what you pay for a tool you loose sight on what you are trying to accomplish.
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On 1/28/2015 10:50 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

about $100 more for a 6" set and never look back.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)22473261&sr=8-2&keywords=forrest+dado+king
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On Wednesday, January 28, 2015 at 2:33:04 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

ing
I quote from the Amazon page for the DeWalt Dado set:
"This Item is Included in Our DEWALT Accessories Promotion. From January 5, 2015, through March 31, 2015, you can get 10% off at checkout when you spe nd $25 or more on select DEWALT accessories shipped and sold by Amazon.com, or 20% off a purchase of $50 or more."
The promo is for DeWalt stuff only.
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On 1/28/2015 10:31 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

an exact fit on the arbor or if the set was not sharpened as a set. Some chippers teeth could be longer or shorter.
My Forrest Dado King leaves ever so slight bat ears, I have not had any issue with that.

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On 1/28/15 1:26 PM, Leon wrote:

They weren't sharpened after purchase. I tried to get across to the guy at Freud that there must be an imperfection in a blade but all he seemed interested in was blaming my saw.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On 1/28/2015 1:50 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Sorry, I was not indicating that the blades had been resharpened so much as improperly sharpened to begin with.
I would say that you cannot expect Freud to be helpful if you are getting the results that "they" expect, for some people that is good enough.
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On 1/28/15 11:31 PM, Leon wrote:

True, very true.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On 1/28/2015 7:31 AM, Swingman wrote:

DerbyDad, there's an oft quoted adage around here "New project = New Tool" please don't screw it up for the rest of us (as SWMBO actually believes me when I tell her this) <g>
Swingman is correct. There are a number of ways to do this project efficiently and properly. Choose one and move on (hopefully with a new tool).
The only certain thing here is that a wobble dado blade ain't going to cut it (pun intended). There are only two things - that I can name off the top of my head - I would use a wobble dado for.
1) hogging a lot of wood away quickly so that I can move in and finish the process with a plane, chisel or router bit, or
2)cutting a dado in a rail and stile to hold a panel in place. In this instance the wobble should work just fine as the panel doesn't really care if the bottom is curved or not and neither will you.
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Like everyone else said, that's your dado set.
You need a shoulder plane to clean it up (ignore what anyone else says, the only correct tool for cleaning up tenons is a shoulder plane). You need a shoulder plane anyway, because it's the only tool for fine-tuning tenons that are a tad thick, or the shoulders don't perfectly line up, and you get those problems every so often regardless of what you cut tenons with.
You don't want to force tenons into mortices in poplar. Sooner or later you'll split one of the morticed pieces. Poplar is not very strong in that regard.
John
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On 1/27/15 9:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

By the way, if anyone reading this is using a dado set on their Ridgid table saw, you might want to check the model number of the saw before you continue.
I ran across a recall notice on the R4511 model. Apparently the arbor shaft fails when using stacked dado blades.
<http://www.ridgid.com/Download/R4511_PR.pdf
--

-MIKE-

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On Tuesday, January 27, 2015 at 7:04:59 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:

(curved-bottom cut causes nonparallel tenons)
A wobble-type dado will cut a flat bottom of the width at which it was sharpened; you can set it to the flattest-bottom cut, then use a sacrificial fence to reveal the cutters to your tenon depth.
For a short stub, you could just use two or more cheapo blades (with washers to adjust for the tooth set) instead of a complete dado set. I've bought multiple on-sale blades for this purpose, but never got around to trying it. Hey, if they were all sharpened in the same batch, the diameters WILL match, just like a good dado set! This won't work well for wide cuts, though, it takes extra motor power.
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