Is any rust acceptable?

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I bought a used JT360. He says he only used it once, but the knives were so far out of alignment that I doubt he could have done even that.
Unfortunately he stored it in his garage without any wax, and it developed a little surface rust. 99% of it came off in minutes with a little steel wool. The rest is a hint of orange down in the grain. I expect I can get that out with some vinegar, but would prefer not to get it wet. Is it okay to leave it and just wax over it, or must I clean it all out first?
Since you are probably dying to know, it was $200 with a jointer pal thrown in. Not really a gloat, but not bad. I will probably be back in a few days to ask how to use the jointer pal, but am asking Woodstock for the instructions first.
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See if you can get it out using 400 wet-or-dry sandpaper, over a wooden block, with mineral spirits as the lubricant.
If not, don't worry about it: as long as it doesn't get wet, it won't spread.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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Rust never sleeps. If you wax OVER rust, it will just keep on rusting under the wax
Get something like the BoeShielf RustOff (or whatever the product name is, use that to get the deep down rust gone, wipe with clean water, then mineral spirits, then dry it off good and THEN wax it
John

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Gosh, I wanted to be told to ignore it... But I am sure your are right; thanks
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I agree.
Dave

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Rust isn't some kind of living thing that grows. If you seal over it, it will stop. Rust is what you get when you mix oxygen and iron. Water helps to catalyse the reaction. Eliminate the O2 and rust stops. Eliminate the water but not the O2, and it slows down a lot. Reduce the temperature and it slows down. Increase the temp and it increases.
Mike
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Michael Daly wrote:

If there is salt on the metal then it needs to be removed or it will continue to attract water and cause rust. Salt can get on it from a variety of sources--in coastal areas it's airborne. IMO, best to assume there is salt and play safe.

--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
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wrote:

Oh, phooey, it won't either. Rust requires both water and oxygen to grow. It's pretty tough to block oxygen, but not so hard to block water. Keep it dry, and the rust won't spread.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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Phooey?? PHOOEY!!! you said PHOOEY???
Whatever is the wreck coming to?
In the good old days there were MANY more descriptive expressions much more colorful than PHOOEY.
Harumph!
wrote:

It's
and
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wrote:

It's
Anyone else get Neil Young popping in their head?
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wax it. use it.
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<< Subject: Re: Is any rust acceptable? From: snipped-for-privacy@thanks.com Date: Thu, Aug 26, 2004 6:22 AM

wax it. use it.

I've used a product, which neutralizes, or inhibits rust. It's a wipe on, which turns the rust black. I first used it when repairing rusty car fenders, back in the day. Any auto parts store should have it.
Curt Blood
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<snip>

"Naval Jelly". and it's not a gel.... I got mine at one of the big-box hardware stores.
--
Andrew Resnick, Ph.D.
Department of Physiology and Biophysics
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Naval Jelly will turn a nice patina into something you really won't want to look at very much anymore.
UA100
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amen
--
Ross
www.myoldtools.com
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IIRC, you use naval jelly followed by a thorough sanding. Then it's bondo time followed by more sanding and a trip to the paint shop ... and viola! you have a 1972 Vega that looks like your teenage brother helped with the body work. (Blechh!!!)
Oops! Did I drift off-topic?
At any rate, any rust/discoloration left after a scrubbing with #0000 steel wool and mineral spirits isn't worth bothering about (unless you started with a barge full of rust).
Bottom line: if you feel naval jelly is necessary, perhaps it's time to reconsider the machine's status as tool or anchor. :)
--
Jeff Thunder
Dept. of Mathematical Sciences
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The easiest way to get rid of light surface rust (and heavy surface rust for that matter) is a single blade razor in a handle. Just slide it across the surface (at a near-like angle as a hand plane) until the rust is all gone.
UA100
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Those things are great. It's one of the few commercial jigs that I felt was worth prying the wallet open for.
Barry
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I have one for my Jet 6CSX. The jig works great, my problem is finding Top Dead Center - "TDC". I think it's more a lack of experience with machinery than anything else. The jig itself works great - it holds the kinves firmly in alignment and makes tightening the bolts very easy. Well worth the cost.
Nick B
wrote:

thrown
days
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wrote:

With the machine unplugged, do the following:
Set a metal straight edge on edge and rotate the cutter head until a knife JUST touches the edge. Precisely mark that spot on the fence.
Continue to rotate the cutter head until the same knife loses contact with the edge. Mark this spot on the fence.
The exact center between the two lines is TDC. Scribe that line on the fence for future use.
There may be better or easier ways, but this has work well for me.
Barry
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