Insuring my new table saw is within spec

90% sure I am getting the Griz 1023sl.
What should I measure and what measurement tools should I buy?
Thanks!
D'ohBoy
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Table flatness - straightedge & feeler gauges arbor/flange runout - dial indicator with shop made jig or http://www.ts-aligner.com / These you can't fix easily if at all
fence 90deg to table - tri-square blade parallelism - dial indicator with shop made jig or http://www.ts-aligner.com / 90 & 45deg stops - straight/square scraps miter gauge stops - straight/square scraps belt/pulley alignment - straightedge
We expect a post like this when you get it http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=28252
Good luck!
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IMO..
flat table -- a 36" straightedge -- Starrett sets the standard, but others are probably close enough and less money. Check front to back at 3-4 places and side to side at 3-4 places and diagonal. Use a feeler guage. Should be < 10 thous. everwhere. All the Delta's I've checked (just 2!) are worse.
flange runout -- blade parallel to slot -- I do this both at the same time. Get a $10 dial indicator and affix it to the table somehow - to the miter guage if no slop, or hold it down steady, or cut a piece of wood to stick in the slot tight. Raise blade to top. For runout, keep the fixture at the same place. Rotate the blade and see how much "wobble" there is. .002" or less should be good. Most of that is probably the blade. If it's > .002 try another blade. If it continues to be a problem, then probably the flange. Now slide the fixture front to back of the blade using the same spot on the blade. Adjust the tabletop to make it < .001".
Next.. fence paralled to slot.. using similar techniques w/ dial indicator
Next.. fence perpendicular to table.. use a good known engineer's square.
clean off all the gook on the trunnions.. lube with a dry lube..
clean off gook on table.. polish with a pure wax.. no silicone
throw out the miter guage -- make some crosscut sleds...
enjoy..
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