Installing T1-11 siding

[dale martin]

Question for y'all. I'm building a small, 8' x 12' shed so that I can get more room in my workshop. The shed will house camping gear, bikes, paint, etc. The detached workshop is maybe 50-60 years old and has redwood shiplap siding painted same color as house, which had redwood lap siding that I replaced with fibercement lap siding about two years ago when we added on to the house. I like the look and durability of the fibercement but it is time consuming to install and is dusty to cut. So instead of going with the Hardieplank for the new shed to match the house I'm thinking of using T1-11 sheet siding for the shed to save on labor time. My question is- would there be any issues with installing the sheets in a horizontal direction so that it comes close to the look of the shiplap on the original shed? I would use z- flashing on horizontal seams and caulk vertical seams that would break at studs which are 24" oc. I've only ever seen the t1-11 installed with the grooves running vertically. Thanks for your input.

[J. Clarke]

It's designed to go vertically. Putting it horizontally the grooves are going to collect rain. With plywood this is not a good thing.

[Leon]

First off I live in an areas that is humid and I am slowly but surely replacing all the siding on my home that is near ground level. Morning dew will rot wood quickly. How much trouble is it to reside 2 times with a wood product than 1 time with fiber cement?

If you install T1-11 horizonally the groves that are normally draining in a vertical position will naturally retain moisture and will eventually rot.

If dust is a concern, put a yourself between the cutting operation and a fan set on hi speed. Or, get a set of nippers to fit your drill that will solve the dust problem when cutting.

[dale martin]

The horizontal grooves retaining moisture is obviously not something that I had thought about, probably the reason I've never seen t1-11 installed this way- duh. Looks like I will be placing an order for some Hardieplank. I have to say I am very happy with the way it looks on the house. Leon- not familiar with the nippers drill attachment can you explain? The last time I used a diamond tipped masonry blade in my circular saw. I know they make special shears for cutting the fibercement product but the size of my project won't justify the cost of such a tool. Thanks again.

[Sonny]

The shed having a different siding may not look as awkward as you think. A little contrast might even look good. Dress some edges/ corners, somehow, if need be.

Why not build your shed 9.5' high.. a bit more attic storage. I used T1-11 on my shop remodel. I installed a lower section 15" high with a

1" X 2" drip edge above, then a full sheet above that, then another drip edge above that, where needed. If ever the bottom rots, all I have to replace is a 15" piece. The lower edge of the bottom section is beveled so water doesn't wick upward.... and I primed & painted the back side of this section, also. All top & bottom edges were beveled 30 degrees to accommodate the drip edge angle and all the cut edges were primed prior to installation. The drip edge above the window awning extends out more than other areas. Everything is screwed in place, also. I don't have any close-ups posted, but here is a few pics (bottom of this page):

[-MIKE-]

Check the rental price.

[Leon]

.

The horizontal grooves retaining moisture is obviously not something that I had thought about, probably the reason I've never seen t1-11 installed this way- duh. Looks like I will be placing an order for some Hardieplank. I have to say I am very happy with the way it looks on the house. Leon- not familiar with the nippers drill attachment can you explain? The last time I used a diamond tipped masonry blade in my circular saw. I know they make special shears for cutting the fibercement product but the size of my project won't justify the cost of such a tool. Thanks again.

Google search , fiber cement shears

or

for a more dedicated solution,