"Fast-acting" ones, yes, "slo-blo" (specifically designed for motor
loads and the like with an initial short-lived high-current transient)
The fuse had to heat up, too (in fact, it had to actually melt) but the
idea is correct; they are designed to handle motor loads inherently to
be general-purpose; it would be a real pain to have to have separate
breakers for the application.
The time for a dead short to heat up and trip will be quite a lot
shorter than that for the motor start; while a motor start is a
(relatively) high current (say 3X or so of full load), that of a dead
short is I=V/(R-->zero) --> Infinite.
Looks like you're on to something.
- Sparks flying is a bad thing.
- You can glue/solder pieces together, but it's not always a good idea.
- You can never have too many clamps/outlets.
- Measure twice, cut once applies to electricity too. (Measure, power good,
cut off at breaker, measure again, no power, probably safe to work.)
- You don't have to match colors to make things work, but not doing so is
the sure sign of a clueless hack. (Intentional mismatching is ok.)
- Hand planes and wire strippers remove the outer surface of the workpiece.
- Copper turns green with age, so do trees.
- Running the wood backwards through the saw won't reattach it... Not even
if you swap the motor leads.
- The sun can be used to generate wood or electricity.
The breaker equivalent of a "slow-blow" fuse is called a "high
magnetic" breaker. If your regular breaker is tripping on startup you
might want to consider going that route. Personally when I run into tht
though I generally just rewire the tool for 220 (if that's an option)
and run a dedicated circuit. Most tools seem happier with 220 anyway.
Running large stationary tools at 240V is certainly recommended (I
think the OP has already gone that way) but there isn't a lot of
reason to run dedicated circuits in a home shop. Several tools can
share the circuit, since you aren't likely to use them simultaneously.
The exception, of course, is a DC.
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