INSPIRATION - Horizontal Router Table


http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/horiztabl.html
There's a couple of things I could do a bit faster, a bit easier, with a horizontal router. So, I've been thinking about making something along these lines. I've gon an old scissor-type car jack that would work nicely for lifting and lowering. I figure a hose faucet on the jack would work. I'd use plywood, probably double pieces lamiated together, for stiffness. Haven't spent much time thinking it out, because I've got other priorities for now. Might have to make a "learning unit" then make another that's right, but it's not rocket science, and shouldn't take too long to make either. I'm just wondering what size nails I should be using, "just until the glue dries".
JOAT You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you "know"?. - Granny Weatherwax
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J T wrote:

riztabl.html
When I made my router table I also made a piece so I could mount the router horizontally. Don't use it much but it is handy at times.
It is 1 1/2 thick (I used PB, laminate over) and is mounted to a stout piece ( about 3.5" x 3.5" under and at the back of the table) at one corner by a through bolt with a "spinner" handle to loosen/tighten it. There is another, similar bolt and handle near the opposite side; that bolt also goes through a radiused through groove in the horizontal table.
Normally, it hangs down at the back of the regular table just below the table surface. To use, one loosens the bolt that goes through the radiused groove and lifts the whole works up, pivoting it on the fixed fastening; I cut the groove at particular distance from the fixed pivot point and there is an aluminum ruler screwed to the non-pivot end of the horizontal table which means I can set a particular height by using the ruler. The scale on the ruler isn't the actual movement but is relative; for example, a 1/16 difference on the ruler = 1/32 height difference for the bit. I have a little lexan hairline scale on the router table itself which can be zeroed and reads the ruler scale.
The router mounts to the horizontal table in the same way it does to the normal table. The 3.5 x 3.5 piece has a 2" square cut out to accomodate the bits.
Hard to visualize, I know, but it is easy to build & easy to use. If you want more info, ask.
--
dadiOH
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J T wrote:

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/horiztabl.html
    j4
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J T wrote:

OK maybe I'm just having brain freeze, but I can't for the life of me figure out how you'd mount the hose faucet on the jack nor what in the world you'd use it for. Have I got the wrong picture in my head? Isn't a hose faucet one of those brass thingies(technical term) on the side of your house that you twist the handle and water comes out? Did you mean hose clamp by chance? bc
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Wed, Mar 29, 2006, 8:58am (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (bc) acts puzzled: OK maybe I'm just having brain freeze, but I can't for the life of me figure out how you'd mount the hose faucet <snip>
Did the word "handle" get left out? LMAO Makes it very easy to make teeny adjustments. For those of you that dont't get it, you use a hose faucet in place of the jack crank.
JOAT You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you "know"?. - Granny Weatherwax
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (J T) wrote:

Another one here:
<http://www.woodhaven.com/detail.aspx?ID >
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How about allowing the router carriage to slide side to side, in addition to height adjustment. Seems useful for cutting tenons on long stock that may be difficult to move, even with a sled. I had also envisioned an acme lead screw or even a 1/4-16 threaded rod for height adjustment, more elegant than rotating the router up or down around a stationary pivot point.... never thought of a scissor lift though!
I am new to all this, so comments are appreciated.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/horiztabl.html
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