If you buy an Incra mitre system there is a section in the manual that tells you to check your blade clearance when making angle adjustments due to the fact that the fence may contact the blade after adjusting. They're right.... 'sigh'
We all do that kind of stuff. Earlier this week, I was in a rush and didn't want to clear off my wood bench to cut the end off a board. I used the extension table of my Unisaw instead and managed to cut a little slice into that square tubing that the Bies locks to. The carbide blade of the Dewalt circular saw didn't show any damage, however.
Ever work out of the back of a pickup truck? I've been told that a carbide blade will slice through the tailgate real well, though it does make sparks...
Then there's the guy who sawed his black & decker workmate in half.
On a more sobering note, a fellow once advised me to be careful when using a circular saw then then showed me that the first three fingers on his left hand were all the same length.
Does the manual warn against forgetting that a dado blade is wider than a standard blade, so you should move the fence to compensate? Not that it's ever been an issue with me--just checking.
Then why did my husband make me feel lower than dirt when I did something very similar? Of course he claimed it also bent his WWII blade (which I have some difficulty believing) and chipped a carbide tooth or two. I didn't know aluminum was THAT hard to cut, especially when there was just a tiny nick out of the fence. That didn't need replacing.
Made me want to never touch his workshop again.. He'd probably happier if I didn't , too.
Since you decided to make a private spat public, you get to read my response in public too. :-)
I said the blade was not bent before you used it to cut used, dirty 2x4s [it wasn't], and that it was bent afterwards [it is]. I never claimed that running it into the aluminum jig bent it.
One tooth.
I said the tooth was not chipped before you used it to cut used, dirty 2x4s [it wasn't], and that it was chipped afterwards [it is]. I never claimed that running it into the aluminum jig chipped it.
No, but it did need some filing and sanding to remove some nasty sharp edges, didn't it?
You took the wrong lesson out of the experience. The *right* lessons to take out of the experience are:
1) Lock the miter gauge on zero before you use it.
2) Verify that the gauge clears the blade *before* applying power.
3) Change to a cheap blade before cutting used construction lumber.
4) Use the factory miter gauge when high precision is not needed.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
On a different subject, my daughter is a nurse in the ER in Naples FL.
Last week a guy came in who lost three fingers in a table saw accident. The doctors were unable to reattach them because he had sawed the same three fingers off on the same table saw a few years before. They had successfully reattached then, but now they were too mangled this time to try to reattach them.
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