Ideas for making a single top for a long series of Ikea bookcases

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A couple of boxes of either cork or bamboo flooring. Prefinished. Really cool textures and colours.
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Interesting idea. More expensive, to be sure, at least for the bamboo, which is a significant concern right now. You are suggesting tongue & groove slat material, I assume? Would you use some thin ply underneath and glue the slats down? What would you do for the edges?
I ask because I do eventually have to repair a damaged bit of floor that consists of some sort of Brazilian Rosewood engineered flooring. I'll have to buy a box of maybe 30-40 square feet to get the few slats I need.
The more I think about it, I sort of like this idea, but for a different set of cabinets in our living room. I could even imagine using 3/4 ply under the flooring to enable me to make an overhang in the front for a wider countertop.
Back to the edges. The flooring I'm talking about is maybe 1/2" thick, essentially plywood with a "cap" layer of nice wood. The cap is maybe 1/16"- 3/32", not just a veneer. I like the idea of a prefinished material, but I wouldn't be able to match the finish. I'd have to make a deliberately contrasting border, I guess. Ideas?
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No beveled edge planks or tiles. Cork comes in a lot of colours and when you put an 1-1/2" oak edge around it, in a complementary aniline dye (Lee Valley) Like a lemon cork with a ochre dyed oak edge...can be cool. http://www.corkfloor.com/tiles.html
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Thanks for the cork link, which happens to be local for me. Do I write with a New York accent? Some of their products look like they would fit the bill nicely. I might order a sample or two.
One question: In my application there'd be no "basebaord molding" to cover up the cut edges; the tiles would be flush up against (and possibly level with) the oak border. Can they be cut neatly? How? Razor knife? I guess I could make a deliberate lip by routing a notch in the oak, But I think that bit of complication might sway me back to the porcelain tile.
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The edge should be elevated above the substrate by a fraction more than the thickness of the cork. that way the edge covers the side of the substrate and the cork at the same time.
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