I got a jointer...... not sure if I wanted it????

[Doug Miller]

No.

That's what you need.

[Locutus]

I admit I have never tried to get silicon off of an iron table before, but it seems to be that if it can mess up finishing on wood, then apparently the wood must be taking some of it off... if the wood is removing it, it seems like it shouldn't be that hard to get it off of there...

[stryped]

[stryped]

[Andy]

Blades aren't the same as other replacement parts - sizes SHOULD be pretty much standard. Even if Craftsman did sell them, I wouldn't get them from there. Once you figure out what dimensions the blades are (measure them), just look around until you find some that are the right size. You might check out

start. Andy

[else24]

Go to the old woodworking machines website. The answer's there and also many more that you haven't asked the questions for yet.

[Doug Miller]

The problem is that the stuff isn't soluble in most common solvents. The only ones that I've observed to have any real effect on it are the chlorinated hydrocarbons such as trichloroethane (the supposedly safer replacement for carbon tetrachloride, AKA tetrachloromethane) and, believe it or not, common household vinegar. Of course, vinegar isn't a real good thing to put on cast iron...

I have observed the following solvents to *not* remove the residue of silicone caulk from a bathtub and bath tiles:

soap & water dish detergent ammonia ethyl alcohol isopropyl alcohol paint thinner acetone xylene turpentine lacquer thinner

[boorite]

(snip)

...and even sanding just spreads it around.

[Doug Miller]

Yep.

[Mike O.]

No.

Probably not but I wouldn't worry too much about that until I got the tables in line with each other.

You very likely do NOT need to do that.

I doubt you need to take it to the grinder but I suspect you might need to take the thing apart to clean it up and remove any debris from the table grooves to get them in line. It's not a difficult process but it does take some time. In the end, you'll be glad you did it.

Mike O.

[Art Greenberg]

Only if its edge is straight.

Better to use an instrument built for the purpose. A 24" aluminum straightedge, probably just about long enough to check your jointer tables, can be purchased for around $25. Still, that's money that could be used for something more useful, especially if you can borrow a proper straightedge for the few minutes it will take to properly evaluate those tables.

[Don Wheeler]

"stryped" wrote in news: [e-mail]:

I have the identical machine. It was given to me by a friend. It had been stored in the back of a shop for years and had dull knives, no motor, no stand, and the bearings were bad. And it was a ball of rust. But I took it completely apart, cleaned off most of the rust, re-painted it, built a stand and spent about $150 bucks to replace the missing/bad parts. It still has rust stains on the beds but they are flat. After re-alignment it works like a champ.

I bought new knives at Sears for about $30, part number 92293. They're pretty standard.

If you don't know much about jointers, PLEASE read up on them before you turn this thing on. There is a lot of stuff on the web on alignment and safe use.

Don

[alexy]

Grinding won't help your table alignment problem, and is gross overkill for rust or other surface clean-up. Useful if the tables are warped (i.e., if a straight edge on ONE table shows a general cupping or bow, or if winding sticks (DAGS) show a twist in one table or the fence face.)

[alexy]

If you are putting the straight edge on one table (not across two tables or one table plus blades), it might need grinding. Don't worry about small local depressions, such as minor rust pitting or small areas where a previous owner might have gotten too aggressive in rubbing out some rust, though.

Good straight edges can get expensive. An inexpensive alternative is a pair of plastic "draftsman triangles". I haven't used them, but understand from others that these are generally very accurate and not subject to warping. Sounds like the "lose out" in a comparison to metal straight edges (to the tolerances of concern to a woodworker) only in lack of durability.

Put two triangles "back to back" so that they form a larger triangle. if there is a dip in the table, when the tops of the triangles touch, there will be a gap at the bottom

[stryped]

How did you tell the bearings were bad? Thanks so much for that part number. Does yours work well edge and face jointing? What size boards can you use on it?

I have read alot. I th> "stryped" wrote in

[stryped]

[Don Wheeler]

"stryped" wrote in news: [e-mail]:

I should have mentioned that I bought these about 10 years ago. They may not carry them now or changed the part number. I still have the box. I store the old blades in it. I figured that some day I might have them sharpened. Anyway, the writing on the box says "Fits all craftsman 6 1/8 inch jointer/planers". YOu could take one of the old knives down to your local Sears and compare them with what they have. I think thats what I did.

About the missing guard. To me, that would be a show stopper. I wouldn't want to run it without a guard. Jointers are scary enough even with a guard.

Figuring out that the bearings were bad was easy. They went crunch crunch when I rotated the cutter. They are a standard size. I took one to a local bearing supply house and they sold me equivalent replacements.

Don

[stryped]

[Pig]

Just so the original poster does not get confused here, It seems to me that the cost of getting a regrind of the tables might exceed the overall value of this particular machine, unless you are buddies with a machinist and can get it done for a case of beer.

Mutt

Doug Miller wrote:

[Don Wheeler]

"stryped" wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Sorry, I can't help you there. I suppose if you could find something to fit the hex shaped hole in the guard return mechanism, you could make a guard out of 3/4 inch plywood. Take a look at some jointers and you'll see how they are typically shaped. Make sure it covers the knives in all possible fence locations.

Don