hvlp

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I know this topic has been beaten to death, but I'd like some help selecting a conversion gun.
I'd like to avoid tubines as I'd prefer to have less noise, and I'd like to have a large compressor anyway.
I'm hoping to spray poly (or poly mixed with tung oil or stain) and rather thick paints for kids furniture. I can see spraying other finishes in the future though. And some day trying to spray cars. I'd like easy clean up. Price matters, but I'm willing to spend what it takes to get a good one. I probably don't need a pro gun. A price around a couple hundred would be about right, unless I can get something equally good for less. I was thinking to get probably the 80 gallon porter cable on amazon for $850 (minus $150). What kind of CFMs should I really be looking for? thanks
brian
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I am looking for some information on HVLP system What do I need to get started ? How the system works /? Can I use my compressor for this system ?
Thanks
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You can if you have a big enough compressor to handle a HVLP conversion gun. You have to compare your compressors output PSI and CFM to that required by the gun,
Other option is a turbine unit which will come with most all of what you need.. Inexpensive ones are available from Rockler and Harbor Freight.
The system works like any spray system, it combines air at a certain pressure and volume with a fluid, atomizing the fluid and shooting it out of the gun.
HVLP differs from conventional spraying because it uses the air volume rather then the high pressure a conventional gun and compressor uses to do the job.
The low pressure greatly reduces bounce back and over spray given a much higher transfer rate then conventional systems.
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
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I saw that Rockler is selling a HVLP system for $99. I was wondering if anyone here has tried it?

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I am planning to purchase HVLP system. I am not familiar with this system. I heard that it saves on paint, no overspray. Which components I need to purchase ? which are good brands ? Can I use my existing compressor ? or it need separate unit ?
Thanks
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brianlanning wrote:

unit that's a 4 stage and it'll spray latex very well, when I install the proper tip. Without breaking the bank, it's difficult for "thick paint" and HVLP to coexist, Brian. My rig ran over $1,200 and I was hesitant to spend that much, but the more I researched it, the more I realized there's no way around it. I looked at other brands, but they weren't as comfortable to hold, or they were "bleeders". After months of indecision, I realized that since I needed a versatile HVLP set up, I was going to need to pony up the big bucks. Eventually I bought extra tips and caps so that I can spray anything from water based dyes, all the way up to latex paint. If you can skip the requirement of spraying thick paint, your options are much broader at lesser cost.
what's the cfm of the PC you are looking at? Personally I don't like the idea of using a compressor with fine finishes because I don't relish getting contaminates in the finish. I've found affordable moisture and oil filters to be only partially effective. Maybe others have had better luck, but I prefer a turbine HVLP.
Dave
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I spray thinned latex with the Jet gun and a Sears oiless compressor at my vacation house. It takes a bit of time but works fine.
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Holy Cow David - you went the expensive route. My guns are all mid-line pro quality at a minimum and I've never spent over $200 on a gun. I spray a lot. I do a lot of automotive painting as well as finishes on wood. Though... I don't spray latex. That must be one heck of a setup you've got there. I can't think of any autobody guys that shoot with a gun that expensive.

Contaminates in the finish are very easy to avoid with only a small amount of diligence. Heck - look at all of the cars on the road that have been painted with a basic oil lubed compressor and a gun. The simple orange bulb does a remarkable job at trapping moisture. Couple that with draining the tank just before shooting, and you've got a 100% effective solution. But, like you say in your closing statement - it is somewhat about preference and that goes a long way to making a guy happy.
--

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Mike Marlow wrote:

were at a WW show. I thought it was too pricey, but what's a guy to do when his wife insists? :) I'm glad it works as well as it does, for the money I spent on it.
Dave
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You are right on the money regarding "affordable" filters. The cost of the better units caused me to go the turbine route. However, since the OP is spraying latex a conversion gun sounds better and he is not worried about a "fine" finish so a bit of oil or water spots will not be noticeable. Cheers, JG
David wrote:

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Strongest recommendation - get yourself the disposable orange (sometimes blue) bulb type filter that screws into the air inlet of your gun. Drain your tank before spraying and use these filters every time you spray. They *do* work. As I've said here before, I paint a lot of cars and I can assure you these devices do work and they cost under $10 for two of them. Leave them on your gun and you will get months and months of reuse out of them.
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I'm not necessarily spraying latex. The truth is that I know next to nothing about paint. All I want to do is be able to spray some paint on kids furniture maybe. If oil based paint is better for that, then maybe that's what I should be using. I'm not sure.
brian
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David wrote:
[snip]

Dave,
I have the Graco 4900 procomp (built-in compressor for remote 2qt pot) with both a remote gun and a gun with a 1qt pot attached. I bought it since I had read that 4 stage turbines can paint latex but I've got to tell you I haven't been too successful. I have all the tips and experimented with several of them but can't get decent output past the tightest round spray pattern -- which isn't helpful at all when I'm trying to paint a door for example. Mind you it was xylene based paint vs water, but the viscosity was really similar to latex. I tried thinning but by the time I thinned it enough to spray I was hardly putting any paint down. Ugh. I just let it go to lack of experience with HVLP and finished the project (bedroom trim) as quick as possible and then cleaned up and put it back in the box.
Problem is it's still sitting there and I'm considering finishing my coffee table by hand because I'm not sure it's worth the trouble (I don't do enough work to probably warrant this type of equipment).
What type of tip combination are you using? What type of fan cap (is that the right term?) -- mine only has one, recently I read that you can get high output caps, is that my problem? Or should I just figure I'm not using it enough to become proficient and sell it?
Thanks, Mike
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Mike in Idaho wrote:

I've got the .028 for stains, .036 and .043 for most everything else, and the .061 just for latex. The dealer said to thin latex by 20%. I don't, because I don't need to. A bit of Floetrol and maybe 10-15% water, at the most. I can spray any pattern needed. I've got the #5, 7, and 9 caps. I'll use the 7 or 9 for latex.
Proficiency isn't the problem. It's tip and cap selection, thinning properly, and adequate flow through the gun. Having said that, I haven't sprayed the exact type of material you are having issues with. Maybe get a bigger cap and tip. There's NO way you'll be able to spray latex well with a tip smaller than the mid 50 thous.
Dave
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I use my single stage hvlp to spray latex paint on doors all the time. I even use the new Wagner Control Spray hvlp to spray latex. I get great results with 2-3 coats.
AZCRAIG
www.vintagetrailersforsale.com

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cm wrote:

dave
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David,
I mix the paint and water in a plastic quart container. I pour in approximatley 1" of water and then fill it the rest of the way with paint. With some thicker latexs I have to add a little more.
When you focurs on the spray patern and size of the atomized paint drops they look big, but flow out nicley. It took a little getting use to at first.
I have sprayed about 30 doors with my $70.00 Wagner Control Spray HVLP. You need almost an 1 1/2" of water for it to spray well.
Craig
www.vintagetrailersforsale.com

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cm wrote:

decent results with a 1 stage unit!
Dave
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brianlanning wrote:

unit that's a 4 stage and it'll spray latex very well, when I install the proper tip. Without breaking the bank, it's difficult for "thick paint" and HVLP to coexist, Brian. My rig ran over $1,200 and I was hesitant to spend that much, but the more I researched it, the more I realized there's no way around it. I looked at other brands, but they weren't as comfortable to hold, or they were "bleeders". After months of indecision, I realized that since I needed a versatile HVLP set up, I was going to need to pony up the big bucks. Eventually I bought extra tips and caps so that I can spray anything from water based dyes, all the way up to latex paint. If you can skip the requirement of spraying thick paint, your options are much broader at lesser cost.
what's the cfm of the PC you are looking at? Personally I don't like the idea of using a compressor with fine finishes because I don't relish getting contaminates in the finish. I've found affordable moisture and oil filters to be only partially effective. Maybe others have had better luck, but I prefer a turbine HVLP.
Dave
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I've never understood when a person states this, and it's true, that they don't just google the archives. Instead, having stated it, they go into the same list of requirements that everyone else before them has stated. Sure, those are great considerations when guying a gun, but why not do a simple search that takes only seconds to do, and will reveal a wealth of information, instead of posting what you know is something that has been addressed to death?
--

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