I have a Delta 6" Deluxe Jointer (JT360) and continuously get tapered results - the leading edge becomes thinner than the trailing edge (tested with a piece of flat particle board). I believe the cause of this is because the outfeed table is at a very slight decline from the knives to the end of the table. Would this be the cause? If so, how do I shim the outfeed table so that it is coplanar with the infeed table?
TIA, Shawn
hi shawn, I just got back from my local woodworking store (scarrie in Baltimore),about the same jointer and the same problem. They said that some of these jointers had some casting defects in the tables but most are ok. They suggest that some paint or some burrs on the underside of the infeed or the outfeed table might be to blame. I'm going to go into the shop and see if I can find any problems now I hope this helps.
The latest ShopNotes has a great article on how to turn up your jointer as well as where to apply shims to get the tables even.
(Im sure there are sites on the web for free that will do the exact same thing as well.)
You need to determine what the problem is. You need a long straight edge. Even up the infeed and outfeed tables and lay a straight edge across both. Shine a flashlight behind the ruler and look at it the entire length of both beds. You should quickly see which table is not parallel. You can use a framing square if you don't have another edge. The amount they are out should be great enough to overcome any problems in the jointer square. You then use a piece of feeler gauge or other thin metal stock to lay on the ways to make them parallel. max
With a good, long straightedge, check for co-planarity at the front, rear and diagonals. Measure the distance the outfeed has dropped at the end of the table with a feeler gauge. Loosen the gibs(you may need a friend to help hold it up so the table doesn't drop off) and insert a shim in each of the ways the outfeed table(it gets moved less).Different thicknesses of brass stock are available at the hardware store. Tighten the gibs gently from the top down and check co-planarity again and ease of motion.You should be able to figure out after a few attempts just how much the table rises with each piece inserted. Sorry this is such a truncated explaination. Tom Work at your leisure!
I probably should know this, but what is a "gib"?
In this case, it's kind of a setscrew. Tom Work at your leisure!
this jointer had problems 15 years ago and still seems to have them. mine had a twisted and warped fence got a replacement and it was only warped. the infeed bed twisted too.
I did some tuning up last night after getting all the available information I could find. Turns out the beds were coplanar, but the bottom edge of the fence, which I was using as an initial judgement was not. Once I put a better straight edge on it (my aluminum level), they were perfect. So after adjusting the knife height and working on my technique, all came out well.
Thanks everyone.
Shawn
Steve Knight wrote:
Shawn wrote:>Once I put a better straight edge on it (my aluminum level),
Invest in a set of "master bars", as you can make them yourself, and they rival the most expensive straightedges you can buy. Tom Work at your leisure!
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