How to rip a long taper


We're remodeling, and I'm putting on trim. I have a door that is very close to a wall, so one of the trim pieces I'm using necessarily needs to span jamb to perpendicular wall. Unfortunately, the distance from the jamb to the wall is 3.5" at the top and 2.5" at the bottom. The standard width of this trim is 3.5" around the entire house. So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long). Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it won't hold pieces that long
Jerry
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Jerome Ranch wrote:

Just toggle or otherwise clamp it to an 8' piece of ply a few inches wide so it overhangs the ply as you wish.
-- dadiOH ____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
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wrote:

Hotglue works for me.
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Do you have anything that long like a metal rod or piece of wood that's straight and fairly firm in structure? You could align it with your tablesaw and shim it so that you get a taper.
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wrote:

You could draw the line and cut it with a:
Hand plane Power hand plane Router and pattern bit and straight edge Hand saw Circular or jig saw, cleaning up with a jointer, belt sander, or plane Freehand on a band saw, cleaning up as above
Or what the others told you on your table saw.
Barry
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What I would do, is use an 8ft long 3/4" piece of plywood about 6" wide, and tack or double stick tape the trim piece to it such that the cut line of the trim piece lined up with one of the plywood strip edges. Then put the other side of the plywood against the fence of the TS, adjustes so thatame width of the plywood. Send the whole thing through the saw & your're done. BTW you can find this technique and many others in most good table saw books. I like Kelly Mehler's book.
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Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
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I LIKE IT thanks Jerry

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This was a great idea to all that suggested it..didn't have an DS tape and didn't want to run our for it. Tried it this AM..due for a winter storm here in Iowa this PM, so I wanted to get this done ASAP
Used a 8" width and 8' long plywood I had, countersunk some drill holes in the back side and mounted my oak through the back with some small screws
Ran it through..famous results..fits perfect, wife loves me..thanks
Jerry
On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 16:39:17 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@fellspt.charm.net () wrote:

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Jerome Ranch wrote:

Be sure to tell stryped :)
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Jerome Ranch wrote:

first check that the wall it butts up against is straight. few are. if the wall isn't good and straight, you'll do better to scribe the molding to the wall with a jigsaw or block plane.
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In fact it IS the wall that is out of square the door and jamb are perfect according to my level.

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not out of plumb- out of line. if the wall is wavy and you cut a nice straight cut on your trim it'll look like shit. the cut needs to follow the wall.
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wrote:

Much of my work is in Old homes and I run into this often. Typically, I mark it and use Planes.
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I don't have the high quality planes to do this.
The trim is 3/.4" thick - and I'd have to plane up to an inch..or would you rough cut with a hand saw first?
Jerry

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The easy way is to first bevel the edge, then mark it. That way you need only plane a small amount, not the full board thickness.
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Jerome Ranch wrote:

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