How to replace 14" bandsaw wheel bearing? (not blade guides)

[lens]

I have an old 14" no-name Taiwanese bandsaw that I am rebuilding. I want to change the wheel bearings. I got the bearing out of the upper

14" wheel by heating the wheel in the oven (it's aluminum) and then swapping out the bearing while the wheel was hot.

The bottom wheel has been tough. I slid the wheel off it's shaft. The shaft rides on two bearings that are pressed in the inside and outside of the frame casting (FYI - this is the drive shaft that also takes a pulley) I manged to removed the shaft and one bearing by knocking the shaft out with a 2x4. One bearing stayed on the shaft and came out with it, but I can't get the other bearing out. It is firmly lodged in the casting. There is only a small hole through the casting for the shaft, so I can't stick something through the back and push it out.

How is this normally done? Since all of these saws are similar, I'm hoping someone has done this. I tried a search, but all posts on "bandsaw bearings" talk about blade guides.

[mgarner1972]

can you use a deep socket that will fit over the shaft, and mate with the bearing race. I will take a look at my ban saw and see how I would go about it. I never would have thought to put the wheel in the oven, how funny

[lens]

I can get the bearing off the shaft (I think) but the other bearing is sitting in the saw. It's the one that's still in the saw casting that I want to remove. Normally I could push it out from the back, but the hole is too small to fit something that will push against the race.

[Norman D. Crow]

I believe I understand? The bearing is stuck IN the saw housing, right? Is there any clearance behind the bearing at all, or is it right up against the casting on the inside? If there is even a 1/16" to 1/8" gap behind the bearing, go to a tool rental place and get a hammer type puller for inside the bearing. It will have jaws that are close together with a small flange or hook on the outside of the jaw. Put it inside the bearing and expand the jaws so they catch the back of the inside race, then use the slide hammer to pull it out.

[Norman D. Crow]

Many years ago, I worked for a close friend in a service station(a real garage, not just a gas pump). We did tuneups, brake service, alignment, A/C work and rebuilt alternators & starters. He had a trick for changing bearings on Chrysler alternators. Use the special puller to remove the old bearing, then put the alternator rotor in the ice cooler for 1/2hr. or so, then put the bearing on an electric hotplate for about 3 min. Take rotor out, pick up bearing with pliers and DROP it on the shaft. No need to press it on. Give it a few min. to equalize temp. and bearing is there until a puller takes it off. Not funny at all, worked real slick.