How to remove ball bearings?


I have a Delta table saw and I need to replace the ball bearings (circled in red in the picture). I tried but it doesn't work. How to remove it?
Thank you !
S.B.
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wrote:

What picture?
Hint: this is a text-only newsgroup. Post pictures at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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bearings. Jim
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Jim wrote:

trailer? You don't use a punch, they fall out. Might use a punch to remove a grease seal if you don't plan on reusing it.
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Then you are have only replaced 1/2 of the bearing. The race that comes with the bearing has to be pressed in or out and should be replaced when the bearing is replaced.
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Leon wrote:

grease a wheel bearing you don't remove the race. And when you replace a bearing, most sources also caution you to replace the race. That caution indicates that the race is separate. So is the race a part of the bearing or is the cage and rollers the bearing? Regardless of the terminology, the unit to change in a saw is one piece and in a car is two pieces, so there is a considerable difference between a bearing for a saw and a bearing for a wheel.
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Correct, and you are not replacing the bearing either. You are only servicing it.

Yes. Use every thing that comes in the the bearing box. The 2 pieces are a matched set.
That caution

Sometimes they are. 1 of the races is seperate. The inner race is a permanent part of the bearing assembly. Rear wheel/axel bearings are often all one piece with both races a permanent part of the bearing similar to the one that the OP is asking about. It must be pressed off and on.
So is the

Is the piston a part of the engine? Yes the race is a part of the bearing. Front wheel bearings have, like most bearings, 2 races. One is permanently attached to the bearing assembly, it rides on the spindle and the other is press fit into the drum or rotor.
Regardless of the

Typically the front wheel bearings on a rear wheel car are 2 piece. Front wheel cars use 1 piece front wheel bearings. Rear axels on rear wheel drive cars can have one piece or 2 piece. Rear axels on a front wheel car are typically 1 piece. Almost always a serviceable bearing is 2 piece and nonserviceable bearing is 1 piece.
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I am sorry for terminology but english is not my usual language. So let's go again... I want to remove the complete part circled in red in the following picture:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/bourque.asselin/M_Brico/photo/Photo008.jpg
It is a ball bearing on the shaft of a table saw similar to Delta 34-410. I am able to remove easily the other one on the left. I tried gently but it didn't work and don't want to break anything. According to the picture, does this part move to left or right? Maybe this part is welded on the shaft and I need the replace all the kit ?
Any suggestion is appreciate. S.B.

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bearings and both bearings come off the pulley (left in your picture) side. The fit is press on the shaft so a gear/pulley puller or press is required to get it off. Remove the pulley, then the first bearing, then the spacer, then the second bearing. The arbor flange is induction welded to the shaft so you can't go to the right.
If it is a Contractor Saw II, the design was to service the shaft and both bearings as a unit. There is no spacer on the shaft, only a raised section that establishes both bearing seats. It is possible to pull the arbor flange (flange is pressed on to a fluted clinch section of the shaft) and pull the flange side bearing to the right, however this is not reccommended because it is most difficult to press the arbor flange back on and keep from getting arbor face runnout.
I can't tell which it is from your picture, If you have an actual model number you can go to the Delta Web site, tech service, parts list and see an exploded diagram of the assembly. assmuming you do not still have your parts list and diagram that came with the saw. or call delta tech service.
hope this helps.
Frank

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Frank Boettcher wrote:

wonder if they switched from the standard bearing/shaft type to the Contractor II type because of safety, maintenance, and guarantee concerns or if they just wanted to make more money by selling the whole unit. I have to ask, did Ford make this part for them? ;) I would guess so from experience with parts designs on my Fords.
Btw, I just replaced the original battery on my 1994 Explorer. The cable positive side nut was 1/2" and the negative side nut was 12mm. Who would design that?
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On Sun, 18 Dec 2005 22:52:56 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"

No, the Contractor Saw II was a lower cost unit to try to hit a specific price point and still offer a solid unit with 1.5 hp induction motor cast iron table and good sound guts, with a couple of nice fence options. The design of the arbor assembly was that way to keep the initial cost of manufacture down. There was no intent to run up the service revenue with the design. The original Contractor was still being built when the contractor II was introduced and in fact has out lived it. The Contractor II was discontinued about 8-10 years ago.
Frank
I have to ask, did

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Leon wrote:

that have no bearing cages and all the parts are separate. Did you want to also mention that we were talking about roller or ball bearings? Or should we also discuss babbitt and bronze bearings? I think you just like to argue and complicate the issue.
The point is that most people are familiar with bearings on the non-driven wheels of cars (front or rear) which have bearing cages that fall out when you remove the brake drum or disk. Removal and replacement of the outer race is obvious or should be to anyone with a little experience.
Some saws may not have one piece bearings but I bet most are single piece, permanently lubed, and sealed or shielded. To someone who has never changed bearings on a saw, it is not at all clear how to get the bearings out and it certainly won't be immediately obvious how to press the bearings onto the shaft and into the bearing holder without damage to the bearing.
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Some rear drives have a "non-serviceable" axle bearing, in that the bearing outer race & rollers are press fit in the axle housing, but the inner race is actually the axle surface itself(DAMHIKT). One of Fords better ideas, at least on their late '80s & 90s F150 P/U trucks. If the bearing goes, it takes the axle surface too. I guess you could stretch the definition to mean a "serviceable" bearing as long as the axle is considered the inner race.
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Oups !
The jointed picture was deleted. So, Here is my question again:
I have a Delta table saw and I need to replace the ball bearings. It work for the firts but doesn't work for the second one, circled in red at :
http://www3.sympatico.ca/bourque.asselin/M_Brico/photo/Photo008.jpg
How to remove it?
Thank you !
S.B.
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You need a bearing press to remove and safely reinstall the new one. Most automotive repair shops and many auto supply stores have them.
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Frank
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I suspect you are not applying enough force to move the bearing. It looks like the bearing needs to get off by moving to the right (I do NOT know this for sure). Trap the bearing on top of 2 hardwood scraps and rap the threaded end of the shaft while protecting the threads with a wood scrap. Make sure you are pressuring the bearing's inner race when working with the new bearing. It should not matter on removing the old one.
There is a chance the old bearing had Loktite or similar which would require mild heat to release. A healthy rap from a hammer should move the bearing at least a little. WD 40 or similar can't hurt and might assist in getting it moving.
(top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net

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Thank you to all. I have finally removed the bearings. The gentle way was ineffective. So I used strength and everything is OK.
S.B.
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