How to make uniform, tapered ends of stopped flutes?

I just picked up a 3/16 round nose bit to rout flutes. I like the look of flutes that start and stop with finely pointed tapers. Is there a particular type of chisel to do that? Power tool or neander, I don't care, as long as they come out even.
TIA
dave
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wrote:

Dave:
Put a square sub base on your router.
Make a ramp in the shape of a wedge (start with a 1/12 pitch) for the router to ride up on.
Clamp the ramp to the workpiece.
Run the flutes normally to the point where the router sub base makes contact with the ramp.
Go up the ramp.
Regards, Tom Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
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I gave it a quick try Tom, by manually raising the board off the router table. The result is too broad due to the shape of the round nose bit. I think to duplicate what I have in mind probably requires a Neander approach? I've been trying to find an example on the net to show you; what I saw was in a magazine at a book store.
dave
Tom Watson wrote:

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Dave,
What you may be looking for is a Lamb's Tongue which is usually done on beveled edges of legs etc. Google for Lamb's Tongue then try using a carving gouge to finish the flute but be sure to carve into the flute to prevent chip-out.
Bob S.

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I always thought a lamb's tongue was the overhanging part of a rail where it ends. Maybe that was a goats tongue.
bs wrote:

--

Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
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On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 15:47:08 -0400, Gerald Ross

A lamb's tongue is just a tapered wiggle shape. You can have a rail end that's a lamb's tongue, or you can equally well have a stopped chamfer with a lamb's tongue. But I can't see how you could have one in a flat surface.
Best gadget I've seen for tapered grooves is the sign cutter and engraving set from Trend. You use a plunge router, ideally with their plunge bar, and a special cutter with a sharp vee nose and a tapered guide bearing. It's then guided in a grooved template, with varying groove width. Keeping some plunge pressure on, and the tapered bearing, means that cutter depth tracks the template groove width.
I know some people have used the ramped guide, but it never worked for me. maybe worth trying if your router is a fixed base.
-- Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
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Andy, any idea if that is available in the US, and if so, how much is it?
dave
Andy Dingley wrote:

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Bay Area Dave wrote:

Take a look at Jesada's "3D Router Carver Bit" on the following page:
http://iseek.com/Projects/omnicat5/index.php?cat_id=0
-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
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would ONE gouge be enough to get the narrow taper near the surface and also clean out the section down in the flute area, or would I need 2 or three different gouges? Do they have names or do I just look at shapes and get what looks appropriate?
dave
bs wrote:

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i just whipped out my woodcraft catalog. there are parting tool and wing parting tools that have sharp V shapes. Looks like I'd need one of those plus another broader gouge. That could run into some serious money at $35 to $60 a pop. There's gotta be a cheaper solution...
dave
bs wrote:

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Dave,
A set of hand carving tools (inexpensive ones) like here
http://www.woodworkerswarehouse.com
and search for carving tools. I think they're about $20 for a set. Your flute is only 3/16" wide so a small gouge should work.
I tried going to the site and doing the search but RR is having a problem tonight and you can't get there from here right now.
Bob S.

look
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Carving sets
http://tinyurl.com/rz2y
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Bob,
Thanks again! I searched that page and expanded the picture of the $34.99 set. Those look like a great choice for me, because of the price and assortment. For occasional use, I wouldn't want to drop $30 - $60 for just one gouge.
dave
bs wrote:

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